Using the DIYAutoTune.com QuadSpark Ignition Module With MegaSquirt


The QuadSpark can work with any MegaSquirt variants. Using it with the MSPNP lineup, MS3Pro ECUs, or DIYPNP are covered in their own product documentation. For the traditional MegaSquirt line, we recommend the V3.0 or V3.57 board for ignition control. The QuadSpark was designed to work with the MS3X’s logic level injector outputs.

QuadSpark wire colors

Function Connects to QuadSpark wire
Spark input A ECU Yellow
Spark output A Coil White
Spark input B ECU Orange
Spark output B Coil Pink
Spark input C ECU Dark green
Spark output C Coil Light green
Spark input D ECU Blue
Spark output D Coil Purple
Grounds Cylinder head Black

 

QuadSpark on an MS3 with MS3X

No hardware mods are required. Simply wire the spark inputs to the MS3X DB37 as shown. If using more than 4 output channels, two QuadSparks will be required.

Spark output  MS3X pin  QuadSpark wire
A 14 Yellow
B 33 Orange
C 15 Dark green
D 34 Blue
E 35 Yellow (2nd module)
F 36 Orange (2nd module)
G 18 Dark green (2nd module)
H 37 Blue (2nd module)

TunerStudio settings required:

Under ignition settings:

  • Set Spark Output: Going High / Inverted. Setting this wrong will overheat the QuadSpark.

Use standard dwell control and adjust as needed to match the coils you are using. Set the dwell at a very low value to start with (we’ve found Ford EDIS coils have especially short dwell times) and increase it slowly. Back it off if the case becomes hot to the touch.

This is an MS2/Extra only version, for V2.0.0 or later code.

QuadSpark on a MegaSquirt-II V3.0 or V3.57

Hardware mods required:

  • Our assembled V3.57 boards, if not fitted for direct coil control, will have a jumper from JS10 to the center hole of Q16. Remove the jumper.

Now for constructing the outputs…

  • Get a 100 ohm 1/4w resistor and cut the leads down to about 1/2″ at each end. Maybe a bit less.
  • Tin each end of the resistor with a bit of solder.
  • Cut a 5″ piece of hookup wire (22ga is fine) and strip just a 1/8″ or so. Tin the stripped wire with solder.
  • Melt the tinned wire tip to one end of the tinned 100 ohm resistor tip and let it cool.
  • Heatshrink wrap this wire/resistor assembly.
  • Use this wire/resistor combo to jumper the ‘top’ (top as in when you facing the silkscreen side of the PCB, with the text so that you can read it normally) lead of R26 to IGN on the opposite side of the PCB on a V3.0, or the center hole of Q16 on a V3.57. (On a V3.57, this is kind of tricky. It’s easier to use pin 7 on the U1 socket instead, on the underside of the board.)
  • Run additional resistor-on-a-wire combinations for each spark output.
Output Input Location (V3.0) Input Location (V3.57) Output point (V3.0) Output point (V3.57)
Spark A Top of R26 U1 pin 7 IGN Center hole of Q16
Spark B Top of R29 U1 pin 8 SPR4 SPR4
Spark C Top of R27 U1 pin 9 SPR3 SPR3
Spark D JS11 JS11 SPR2 SPR2

External wiring:

Output DB37 pin QuadSpark wire
Spark A 36 Yellow
Spark B 6 Orange
Spark C 5 Dark Green
Spark D 4 Blu

 

TunerStudio settings required:

  • Set Spark Output to “Going High (Inverted).” Setting this wrong can overheat the QuadSpark or damage the coils.
  • Set Spark A output pin to D14.

Enable dwell control and adjust as needed to match the coils you are using. Set the dwell at a very low value to start with (we’ve found Ford EDIS coils have especially short dwell times) and increase it slowly. Back it off if the case become hot to the touch.

And for MS1:

QuadSpark on a MegaSquirt-I V3.0 or V3.57

Hardware mods required:

  • If the board already has any ignition outputs, remove them
  • Get a 100 ohm 1/4w resistor and cut the leads down to about 1/2″ at each end. Maybe a bit less.
  • Tin each end of the resistor with a bit of solder.
  • Cut a 5″ piece of hookup wire (22ga is fine) and strip just a 1/8″ or so. Tin the stripped wire with solder.
  • Melt the tinned wire tip to one end of the tinned 100 ohm resistor tip and let it cool.
  • Heatshrink wrap this wire/resistor assembly.
  • Use this wire/resistor combo to jumper the ‘top’ (top as in when you facing the silkscreen side of the PCB, with the text so that you can read it normally) lead of R26 to IGN on the opposite side of the PCB on a V3.0, or the center hole of Q16 on a V3.57. (On a V3.57, this is kind of tricky. It’s easier to use pin 7 on the U1 socket instead, on the underside of the board.)
  • Run additional resistor-on-a-wire combinations for each spark output.
Output Input Location (V3.0) Input Location (V3.57) Output point (V3.0) Output point (V3.57)
Spark A Top of R26 U1 pin 7 IGN Center hole of Q16
Spark B Top of R29 U1 pin 8 IAC2B IAC2B
Spark C Top of R27 U1 pin 9 IAC2A IAC2A
Spark D Bottom of R1 (R1 removed) JS12 IAC1B IAC1B

External wiring:

Output DB37 pin QuadSpark wire
Spark A 36 Yellow
Spark B 31 Orange
Spark C 29 Dark Green
Spark D 27 Blue

 

TunerStudio settings required:

  • Set Spark Output Inverted to “Yes.” Setting this wrong can overheat the QuadSpark or damage the coils.

Enable dwell control and adjust as needed to match the coils you are using. Set the dwell at a very low value to start with (we’ve found Ford EDIS coils have especially short dwell times) and increase it slowly. Back it off if the BIP373s become hot to the touch.

For further information please see the Conditions of Use page.