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How to MegaSquirt your Ford Mustang 5.0

Thanks and props to 'DieselGeek' for alot of help getting this info together!  You da man.

Also-- if you haven't already, please read the 'disclaimer' at the top of the parent page here.

 

 

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Click here for to order yours today! Or check out the MegaSquirt PNP website for more information.

(Or keep reading below for how to MegaSquirt your Mustang the DIY way and save a few bucks!)

 

All 86-95 Fox Body 5.0 Mustangs

These have TFI modules on the distributor (86-93) or remotely mounted (94-95).  You can do these using the PIP wire on the TFI distributor as the tach input to MegaSquirt-I running MSnS-E firmware, or a MegaSquirt-II running the standard MS2 firmware.  More information on each implementation and any modifications required are below.

 

86-93 5.0l Mustangs

On all of these Mustangs, Megasquirt allows you to completely remove the EEC-IV ECU and replace it with the MegaSquirt. The MegaSquirt can take over all of the functions except some of the emissions control devices.

Basically you get the TACH input to the MegaSquirt (pin 24) from the PIP signal on the TFI module, and you send the outgoing MS ignition signal back out from pin 36 to the SPOUT pin on the TFI module.  You can use the Megasquirt to control the TFI module, which is quite straightforward. Or if you want to give your system the ability to cut the fuel, you can control an MSD box or the coil directly, bypassing the TFI module on the output side.

 

94-95 5.0l Mustangs

On SN95 Mustangs, you can use the MegaSquirt to remove the stock ECU if you have a manual tranmsission. You only need to keep the stock ECU if you are running an automatic, since MegaSquirt (currently) does not have transmission control outputs.

Based on a remote mount TFI Module and a separate distributor.  Same story as the 87-93 for the most part, you just get the return the signals to different places.  Basically you get the TACH input to the MegaSquirt (pin 24) from the PIP signal on the TFI module, and you send the outgoing MS ignition signal back out from pin 36 to the SPOUT pin on the TFI module. 

Thanks to 'MegaScott' on the MSEFI.com forums for this drawing and permission to use it here.

Almost any MS variant can be used on these cars with full fuel and ignition control. The MS2 adds more precise fuel and timing control with a faster processor, while MS3 opens up even more options, including full sequential EFI with the stock distributor.

Using the MegaSquirt-I (MSnS-E) with a MSD 6A Ignition Box on a TFI Vehicle

(such as the 86-95 Mustang)

This setup drives the MSD box through a BIP373 transistor (for a V3.0 board) or 2N2222A (for a V2.2) and works with the stock Ford fast idle valve. The V3.0 version can also drive a coil directly.

MegaSquirt-I PCBv2.2 Mods Required: 

  • Input mod:  You install a 1k 1/4w resistor in place of D8
  • Output mod: Run a jumper wire from the negative lead of LED 17 to jumper X11.
  • Fast idle mod: Replace transistor Q5 with a TIP120/121/122 power Darlington, as shown on our MK-PWMIAC catalog page.
  • That's it!

 

MegaSquirt-I PCBv3.0 Mods Required: 

  • Input mod:  You install a 1k 1/4w resistor in place of D2. Jumper TachSelect to OptoIn, XG1 to XG2, and TSEL to OptoOut.
  • Output mods:
  • Jumper IGBTOUT to IGN to send to IGBT ignition coil driver signal out of pin 36 on the DB37.
  • Install Q16 if it is not already installed (Our units will have this already soldered in).
  • Cut out R57 if fitted (This won't be there on my units, though).
  • Get a 330 ohm 1/4w resistor and cut the leads down to about 1/2" at each end. Maybe a bit less.
  • Tin each end of the resistor with a bit of solder.
  • Cut a 5" piece of hookup wire (22ga is fine) and strip just a 1/8" or so. Tin the stripped wire with solder.
  • Melt the tinned wire tip to one end of the tinned 330 ohm resistor tip and let it cool.

  msnse_led17-d14_thru_vb921005.jpg (67542 bytes)

  • Heatshrink wrap this wire/resistor assembly.

msnse_led17-d14_thru_vb921007.jpg (79951 bytes)

  • Use this wire/resistor combo to jumper the 'top' (top as in when you facing the silkscreen side of the PCB, with the text so that you can read it normally) lead of R26 to IGBTIN on the opposite side of the PCB.

msnse_led17-d14_thru_vb921011.jpg (149401 bytes)

  • Fast idle mods:
  • Remove Q20 and D8.
  • Remove R39 and install a jumper in its place.
  • Install a TIP120/121/122 in place of Q4. For more information, see our MK-PWMIAC page.
  • That's it!

 

MSnS-E Ignition Configuration

  • Configur TunerStudio for MSnS (NOT TFI) Spark Output using LED17 (D14).   (You'd only set it to TFI if you weren't using the MSD box and had done the TFI mods)

  • In MegaTune, you MUST have "spark output" set to "inverted." 
  • The MSD box will control the dwell.

External Wiring

 

Here is an external wiring diagram for the V3.0 board. V2.2 wiring is identical except that you will connect the MSD white wire to pin 25 instead of 36. Note that the fuses and relays are already in the stock wiring, so you will not need to change these. The injector configuration shown is intended to promote smooth flow through the fuel rails and is one of several possible ways to wire the injectors.

 

 

 

 

Using the MegaSquirt-I (MSnS-E) with the factory TFI Ignition

(such as the 86-95 Mustang)

MegaSquirt-I PCBv2.2 Mods Required: 

  • Input mod:  You install a 1k 1/4w resistor in place of D8
  • Output mods:
  • Run a jumper wire from the negative lead of LED 17 to jumper X11.
  • Get a 1k ohm 1/4w resistor and cut the leads down to about 1/2" at each end. Maybe a bit less.
  • Tin each end of the resistor with a bit of solder.
  • Cut a 5" piece of hookup wire (22ga is fine) and strip just a 1/8" or so. Tin the stripped wire with solder.
  • Melt the tinned wire tip to one end of the tinned 1K ohm resistor tip and let it cool.

  msnse_led17-d14_thru_vb921005.jpg (67542 bytes)

  • Heatshrink wrap this wire/resistor assembly.

msnse_led17-d14_thru_vb921007.jpg (79951 bytes)

  • Use this wire/resistor combo to jumper the negative lead of LED17 to the left pin (as viewed from the top of the board) of U5 to add a 12 volt pull-up.
  • Fast idle mod: Replace transistor Q5 with a TIP120/121/122 power Darlington, as shown on our MK-PWMIAC catalog page.
  • That's it!

 

MegaSquirt-I PCBv3.0 Mods Required: 

  • Input mod:  You install a 1k 1/4w resistor in place of D2. Jumper TachSelect to OptoIn, XG1 to XG2, and TSEL to OptoOut.
  • Output mods:
  • Run a jumper wire from the lead of D14 nearest the DB9 connector to the IGN jumper.
  • Wrap a 1k resistor in a length of heat shrink tubing, about 1" long, so that the leads of the resistor stick out both ends of the tubing.
  • Use this insulated resistor to connect the S12 jumper hole to the IGN jumper to provide a 12 volt pull-up on the ignition output.
  • Fast idle mods:
  • Remove Q20 and D8.
  • Remove R39 and install a jumper in its place.
  • Install a TIP120/121/122 in place of Q4. For more information, see our MK-PWMIAC page.
  • That's it!

MSnS-E Ignition Configuration

  • Configure TunerStudio for TFI Spark Output using LED17 (D14). 

  • Set Spark Output Inverted to Yes.
  • Set Trigger Angle to 10 degrees.
  • Set Dwell to Fixed Duty, and Spark Output Duty Cycle to 50% duty cycle. 

External Wiring

Here is an external wiring diagram for the V3.0 board. V2.2 wiring is identical except that you will connect the TFI SPOUT signal to pin 25 instead of 36. Note that the fuses and relays are already in the stock wiring, so you will not need to change these. The injector configuration shown is intended to promote smooth flow through the fuel rails and is one of several possible ways to wire the injectors.

 

 

 

Using the MegaSquirt-I (MSnS-E) with a MSD 6A Ignition Box on a TFI Vehicle

using the Fast Idle Output for spark control

 

This is an older setup that is somewhat easier to build, but does not offer fast idle support, nor does it use quite as reliable a transistor to drive the MSD box as the BIP373.

 

MegaSquirt-I PCBv2.2 Mods Required: 

  • Input Mod:  You install a 1k 1/4w resistor in place of D8
  • Output Mod: None Required when using MSD 6a Box.

 

MegaSquirt-I PCBv3.0 Mods Required: 

  • Input Mod:  You install a 1k 1/4w resistor in place of D2
  • Output Mod: None Required when using MSD 6a Box.

 

MSnS-E Ignition Config

  • Configured for MSnS (NOT TFI) Spark Output using FIDLE (pin 30)   (You'd only set it to TFI if you weren't using the MSD box and had done the TFI mods)

             msnse_msd6a_config.JPG (36597 bytes) <--- Click here for a closer look at the proper settings

  • In TunerStudio, you MUST have "spark output" set to "inverted." 

 

Thanks to 'stangdrvr' for the drawings and notes and permission to use them here!

These diagrams are very useful if you are planning on running your MegaSquirt using a MSD 6a box to provide the ignition signal.

There are a few changes to the second diagram as compared to the MegaManual on the msefi site.  These changes are TFI + MSD specific.


A1 = Connect to oxygen sensor, LM-1, or LC-1 output.
B2 = Connect to blue wire from TFI module.
C3 = Connect to coil outputs from MSD.
D4 = Connect to white wire from MSD.

 

 

 

 

Using the MegaSquirt-II PCBv3 with the factory TFI Ignition

(such as the 86-95 Mustang)

 

 

If you're assembling your MegaSquirt-II from a kit (Part# MS230-K):

  • For the most part, stick with the standard assembly documentation at http://www.megamanual.com/ms2/V3assemble.htm.  I'll just be covering any differentiation from that doc here.

  • Step 22:  You really don't need any of the 5 jumper wires listed in this step.  If you ever use this ECU on a different car that does use a stepper motor IAC you can add them then.  Personally, I'd leave them out for your Mustang as you can use the IAC outputs for other cool stuff later.

  • Step 50:  You'll be installing the 'Hall/Optical Input Circuit'  (currently all steps under 50a).  If you see any steps that say 'only do this if you are triggering from the negative terminal of the coil', you aren't, so don't. ;)

    • INSTEAD OF JUMPERING D2 as directed here, install a 1k 1/4watt resistor in it's place.

  • Step 51:  You don't need these components, but I'd recommend installing them anyways in case the MS ECU is ever used on another car with a VR sensor.

  • Step 52:  Set the jumpers for Hall/Optical/Points.  That would be XG1 to XG2, OPTOIN to TACHSELECT, and TSEL to OPTOOUT.

  • Step 59:  You will be doing the PWM Idle Mod using the parts from the mk-PWMIAC.  That means you leave D8 out when you get to this step.

  • Step 62:  Follow the steps in the blue box following step 62 to finish installing the mk-PWMIAC for control of your 2-wire idle valve.

  • Step 65:  You ARE USING THE IGBT High Current Ignition Driver Circuit.  That means you complete step 65.  Install everything just as this step directs you to (which does mean no R57), and install the jumpers to enable the circuit. (IGBTIN to JS10 and IGBTOUT to IGN) Note that if you are using a metal backed transistor like a BIP373 or certain switching transistors, you must use a mica insulator under Q16.

NOTE-- there was originally an error in the MS2 TFI docs that said to leave R43 out for this setup, I've found that to be incorrect and it's been corrected it in the MS2 docs, so LEAVE R43 in!

  • Step 69:  Choice time -- Install the PWM Flyback Circuit bits....

  • Step 71:  Choice time -- Install the  current limit circuit for FET protection....

  • Step 74:  Do not install Q20 (part of the mk-PWMIAC mod)

  • Step 75:  Leave R39 out and jumper it instead (part of the mk-PWMIAC mod)

  • Now for the final step (Mod for TFI Ignition Output).  Use a 100ohm, 1/4watt resistor.  Solder one leg of this to the IGN/IGBTOUT jumper wire.  Solder the other leg of this to the hole labeled S12.  (Not to be confused with the hole labeled S12C !)  The S12 label is on TOP of the board, but you'll place this resistor on the bottom generally.  Check out this diagram.

    Image courtesy of Bowling and Grippo

     

 

That's it-- you've got your Megasquirt-II Engine Management System fully prepared to receive the ignition input from your TFI module, and return the Megasquirt controlled ignition output back to the TFI module giving you full control of your stock TFI ignition system.  At the same time you've also 'modded' the FIDLE output to be able to handle your Pulse-Width Modulated (PWM) Idle-Air-Controller (IAC). 

 

If you're modifying a DIYAutoTune.com MS230-C MegaSquirt-II Assembled ECU:

Input Mod:

  • There will be a jumper wire in the D2 position.  Remove this jumper wire and place a 1k 1/4 watt resistor in this position instead.

Output Mod:

  • There will be a jumper wire from JS10 over to IGN.  Desolder and remove this (don't just cut it, you'll need the holes clear of solder).
  • Install new jumper wires to enable the IGBT High Current Ignition Driver Circuit (IGBTIN to JS10 and IGBTOUT to IGN)
  • Use a 100ohm, 1/4watt resistor.  Solder one leg of this to the IGN/IGBTOUT jumper wire.  Solder the other leg of this to the hole labeled S12.  (Not to be confused with the hole labeled S12C !)  The S12 label is on TOP of the board, but you'll place this resistor on the bottom generally.  Check out this diagram.

Image courtesy of Bowling and Grippo

 

 

That's it-- you've got your Megasquirt-II Engine Management System fully prepared to receive the ignition input from your TFI module, and return the Megasquirt controlled ignition output back to the TFI module giving you full control of your stock TFI ignition system.  At the same time you've also 'modded' the FIDLE output to be able to handle your Pulse-Width Modulated (PWM) Idle-Air-Controller (IAC). 

If you're modifying a DIYAutoTune.com MS2357-C MegaSquirt-II Assembled ECU:

Input Mod:

  • Jumper J1 to the 5-6 position and JP1 to the 1-2 position.

Output Mod:

  • There will be a jumper wire from JS10 over to the center hole of Q16.  Desolder and remove this (don't just cut it, you'll need the holes clear of solder).
  • Rewire this jumper so it goes from JS10 to IGBTIN.
  • Install a BIP373 with mica insulator in the Q16 slot.
  • Use a 100ohm, 1/4watt resistor.  Solder one leg of this to the center hole of Q16.  Solder the other leg of this to the hole labeled S12.  (Not to be confused with the hole labeled S12C !)  The S12 label is on TOP of the board, but you'll place this resistor on the bottom generally.

V3.57s do not need to be modified for IAC output.

 

Wiring it all up...

 

I couldn't possibly hope to cover all of the wiring information that is so thoroughly covered in the MegaManual here, and for the most part there's really no need to.  Sensors and Injectors wire up the same on most every vehicle out there... You can use the MegaManual's wiring section for this information.  I'm going to cover the Mustang specific stuff here.... that would be the Ignition Wiring and the PWM IAC valve wiring.  Those are the only two missing pieces of the puzzle.

 

Ignition Wiring:

  • Input: Pin 24 on MS-II DB37, PIP from TFI module

  • Output: Pin 36 on MS-II DB37, SPOUT to TFI module

Image courtesy of Bowling and Grippo

 

PWM IAC Wiring:

To wire this up without the relay board (directly to the ECU), wire up the hot wire from the idle valve to switched 12v+ (hot in RUN), and wire the negative wire from the idle valve directly to pin 30 on the MegaSquirt DB37.


To wire this up with the relay board, you will need to jumper the FIDLE relay to take it out of the loop, below is a picture of how to do this. Then you will still wire up the hot wire from the idle valve to switched 12v+ (you could use the fuel pump power from the relay board), and wire the negative wire from the idle valve directly to the FIDLE terminal on the relay board. This will allow full control of your PWM idle valve.


Image 'borrowed' from the MSnS-E pages

You should also put a 1N4001 diode across the PWM Idle valve itself - the banded end goes to the 12 Volt supply, the non-banded end goes to the lead that goes to MegaSquirt (this diode is for flyback purposes on the idle valve).


 

TunerStudio Ignition Configuration for MS2/Extra:

  • Spark Mode to "Basic Trigger"
  • Trigger Angle / Offset should be set at 10 degrees to start. Adjust as needed to make the timing you see with a timing light match the timing in TunerStudio.
  • Ignition Input Capture to 'Falling Edge'
  • Spark Output to 'Going High (inverted)'
  • Number of Coils to Single Coil
  • Spark A Output Pin  to JS10
  • Dwell type to Fixed Duty
  • Dwell duty to 50%

IAC settings for closed loop can be found in the base map below.

 

 

Coolant (CLT) / Intake (IAT/MAT) Temperature Sensor Calibration

You can use your stock IAT and CLT sensors, and with the MegaSquirt-II you can calibrate these sensors through TunerStudio.  It's best to leave the standard R4 and R7 'Bias Resistors' in place in the MegaSquirt and just configure this in the software.  You get better accuracy this way.

  • Open TunerStudio>Tools>Calibrate Thermistor Tables
  • Select 'Coolant Temp Sensor', Select 'Fahrenheit', and enter these values:

  • Click OK and the Coolant sensor will be calibrated.
  • You're not quite finished yet though--- You need to repeat these steps, but choose 'Air Temperature' as the sensor table and use the same temp and resistance values from above as the sensors use the same curve.  This will calibrate the IAT as well.

NOTE-- Make sure you chose Fahrenheit or your readings will be WAY off with the above values....

 

 

 

Using the MegaSquirt-II PCBv3 with a MSD 6A Ignition Box on a TFI Vehicle

(such as the 86-95 Mustang)

 

 

If you're assembling your MegaSquirt-II from a kit (Part# MS230-K):

  • For the most part, stick with the standard assembly documentation at http://www.megamanual.com/ms2/V3assemble.htm.  I'll just be covering any differentiation from that doc here.

  • Step 22:  You really don't need any of the 5 jumper wires listed in this step.  If you ever use this ECU on a different car that does use a stepper motor IAC you can add them then.  Personally, I'd leave them out for your Mustang as you can use the IAC outputs for other cool stuff later.

  • Step 50:  You'll be installing the 'Hall/Optical Input Circuit'  (currently all steps under 50a).  If you see any steps that say 'only do this if you are triggering from the negative terminal of the coil', you aren't, so don't. ;)

    • INSTEAD OF JUMPERING D2 as directed here, install a 1k 1/4watt resistor in it's place.

  • Step 51:  You don't need these components, but I'd recommend installing them anyways in case the MS ECU is ever used on another car with a VR sensor.

  • Step 52:  Set the jumpers for Hall/Optical/Points.  That would be XG1 to XG2, OPTOIN to TACHSELECT, and TSEL to OPTOOUT.

  • Step 59:  You will be doing the PWM Idle Mod using the parts from the mk-PWMIAC.  That means you leave D8 out when you get to this step.
  • Step 62:  Follow the steps in the blue box following step 62 to finish installing the mk-PWMIAC for control of your 2-wire idle valve.
  • Step 65:  You ARE USING THE IGBT High Current Ignition Driver Circuit.  That means you complete step 65.  Install everything just as this step directs you to (which does mean no R57), and install the jumpers to enable the circuit. (IGBTIN to JS10 and IGBTOUT to IGN) Note that if using a metal backed transistor like a BIP373, you must use a mica insulator under Q16.

NOTE-- there was originally an error in the MS2 TFI docs that said to leave R43 out for this setup, I've found that to be incorrect and it's been corrected it in the MS2 docs, so LEAVE R43 in!

  • Step 69:  Choice time -- Install the PWM Flyback Circuit bits....
  • Step 71:  Choice time -- Install the  current limit circuit for FET protection....
  • Step 74:  Do not install Q20 (part of the mk-PWMIAC mod)
  • Step 75:  Leave R39 out and jumper it instead (part of the mk-PWMIAC mod)

 

That's it-- you've got your Megasquirt-II Engine Management System fully prepared to receive the ignition input from your TFI module, and return the Megasquirt controlled ignition output out to your MSD 6a CD Ignition box-- Giving you full control of your fuel and ignition!.  At the same time you've also 'modded' the FIDLE output to be able to handle your Pulse-Width Modulated (PWM) Idle-Air-Controller (IAC). 

 

If you're Modifying a DIYAutoTune.com MS230-C MegaSquirt-II Assembled ECU:

Input Mod:

  • There will be a jumper wire in the D2 position.  Remove this jumper wire and place a 1k 1/4 watt resistor in this position instead.

Output Mod:

  • There will be a jumper wire from JS10 over to IGN.  Desolder and remove this (don't just cut it, you'll need the holes clear of solder).
  • Install new jumper wires to enable the IGBT High Current Ignition Driver Circuit (IGBTIN to JS10 and IGBTOUT to IGN)

 

 

That's it-- you've got your Megasquirt-II Engine Management System fully prepared to receive the ignition input from your TFI module, and return the Megasquirt controlled ignition output out to your MSD 6a CD Ignition box-- Giving you full control of your fuel and ignition!.  At the same time you've also 'modded' the FIDLE output to be able to handle your Pulse-Width Modulated (PWM) Idle-Air-Controller (IAC).

 

If you're modifying a DIYAutoTune.com MS2357-C MegaSquirt-II Assembled ECU:

Input Mod:

  • Jumper J1 to the 5-6 position and JP1 to the 1-2 position.

Output Mod:

  • There will be a jumper wire from JS10 over to the center hole of Q16.  Desolder and remove this (don't just cut it, you'll need the holes clear of solder).
  • Rewire this jumper so it goes from JS10 to IGBTIN.
  • Install a BIP373 with mica insulator in the Q16 slot.

 

V3.57s do not need to be modified for IAC output.

 

Wiring it all up...

 

I couldn't possibly hope to cover all of the wiring information that is so thoroughly covered in the MegaManual here, and for the most part there's really no need to.  Sensors and Injectors wire up the same on most every vehicle out there... You can use the MegaManual's wiring section for this information.  I'm going to cover the Mustang specific stuff here.... that would be the Ignition Wiring and the PWM IAC valve wiring.  Those are the only two missing pieces of the puzzle.

 

Ignition Wiring:

  • Input: Pin 24 on MS-II DB37, PIP from TFI module

  • Output: Pin 36 on MS-II DB37, connected to white wire (points trigger) on the MSD 6a box

Image courtesy of Bowling and Grippo

 

PWM IAC Wiring:

To wire this up without the relay board (directly to the ECU), wire up the hot wire from the idle valve to switched 12v+ (hot in RUN), and wire the negative wire from the idle valve directly to pin 30 on the MegaSquirt DB37.


To wire this up with the relay board, you will need to jumper the FIDLE relay to take it out of the loop, below is a picture of how to do this. Then you will still wire up the hot wire from the idle valve to switched 12v+ (you could use the fuel pump power from the relay board), and wire the negative wire from the idle valve directly to the FIDLE terminal on the relay board. This will allow full control of your PWM idle valve.


Image 'borrowed' from the MSnS-E pages

You should also put a 1N4001 diode across the PWM Idle valve itself - the banded end goes to the 12 Volt supply, the non-banded end goes to the lead that goes to MegaSquirt (this diode is for flyback purposes on the idle valve).


 

TunerStudio Ignition Configuration for MS2/Extra:

  • Spark Mode to "Basic Trigger"
  • Trigger Angle / Offset should be set at 10 degrees to start. Adjust as needed to make the timing you see with a timing light match the timing in TunerStudio.
  • Ignition Input Capture to 'Falling Edge'
  • Spark Output to 'Going High (inverted)'
  • Number of Coils to Single Coil
  • Spark A Output Pin  to JS10
  • Dwell type to Fixed Duty
  • Dwell duty to 50%

IAC settings for closed loop can be found in the base map below.

 

 

Coolant (CLT) / Intake (IAT/MAT) Temperature Sensor Calibration

You can use your stock IAT and CLT sensors, and with the MegaSquirt-II you can calibrate these sensors through TunerStudio.  It's best to leave the standard R4 and R7 'Bias Resistors' in place in the MegaSquirt and just configure this in the software.  You get better accuracy this way.

  • Open TunerStudio>Tools>Calibrate Thermistor Tables
  • Select 'Coolant Temp Sensor', Select 'Fahrenheit', and enter these values:

  • Click OK and the Coolant sensor will be calibrated.
  • You're not quite finished yet though--- You need to repeat these steps, but choose 'Air Temperature' as the sensor table and use the same temp and resistance values from above as the sensors use the same curve.  This will calibrate the IAT as well.

NOTE-- Make sure you chose Fahrenheit or your readings will be WAY off with the above values....

 

 

 

Using the MegaSquirt-III and MS3X

Note - if you're not using an MS3X, use the MS2 directions.

 

Hardware setup

  • Follow the standard build guides for MS3, including TachSelect to VRIN and TSEL to VROUT on a V3.0 board. (On a V3.57 board, put main board jumper JP1 in the 1-2 position, and J1 in the 3-4 position).
  • Make sure you have the pull up jumper for 12 volt tach output (JP3 on the MS3X) is across both JP3 pins.

That's it!

 

Wiring it all up...

 

I couldn't possibly hope to cover all of the wiring information that is so thoroughly covered in the MegaManual here, and for the most part there's really no need to.  Sensors and Injectors wire up the same on most every vehicle out there... With an MS3, do not use the MegaManual wiring diagram; you want the wiring diagram in the MS3 manual. I'm going to cover the Mustang specific stuff here.... that would be the Ignition Wiring and the PWM IAC valve wiring.  Those are the only two missing pieces of the puzzle.

 

Ignition Wiring:

  • Input: Pin 24 on main board DB37, PIP from TFI module

  • Output: Pin 26 on MS3X DB37, connected to SPOUT on distributor. Can also be wired to the white wire of an MSD6 box.

 

PWM IAC Wiring:

To wire this up without the relay board (directly to the ECU), wire up the hot wire from the idle valve to switched 12v+ (hot in RUN), and wire the negative wire from the idle valve directly to pin 9 on the MS3X DB37.  This uses the PWM idle driver on the MS3X board.


To use signature PIP mode for sequential injection, you need V1.1 or later code.

TunerStudio Settings:

  • Spark Mode to "Basic Trigger"
  • Ford TFI Options to "TFI Signature PIP"
  • Trigger Angle / Offset should be set at 10 degrees to start. Adjust as needed to make the timing you see with a timing light match the timing in TunerStudio.
  • Ignition Input Capture to 'Falling Edge'
  • Spark Output to 'Going High (inverted)'
  • Number of Coils to Single Coil
  • Spark Hardware in use to Tacho
  • Dwell type to Fixed Duty
  • Dwell duty to 50%

 

More Information

 

Looking for a base map?

We've now posted a 5.0 Mustang base map for you to download, for MS2/Extra 2.1.0 firmware. Here is a brief rundown of the specs on the test car. This map should be a good starting point for a mildly modified car.

  • 1993 5.0 Mustang GT
  • Stock short block
  • Stock 19 lb/hr injectors
  • GT40P (Explorer) head swap
  • Edelbrock intake manifold
  • Professional Products throttle body
  • Shorty headers
  • Flowmaster exhaust

 

Other Things the ECU Controls

The stock ECU controls a couple other devices in these cars besides the injectors, ignition, and IAC valve, but not very much. Here's what to do about the ones you will need to control.

Fuel pump: This is a standard output on the Megasquirt. Wire the Megasquirt pin 37 to the fuel pump relay wire that went to the stock ECU.

Cooling fans: The '94-'95 cars generally had two cooling fan control outputs, one for low speed and one for high speed. Use one MK-RelayCtrl mod kit for each of them if you want to control the fans with MS1. See here for a picture of an installed relay control mod kit. If you have an MS2, you can use the two stepper IAC outputs to drive the relays - just wire the two IAC1 wires across the coil of the low speed fan relay, and the IAC2 wires across the coil of the high speed fan relay. The ECU did not control the fans on '93 and earlier models.

Air conditioning: Tthe ECU can turn the A/C off at full throttle, but it does not turn the A/C on. You can use an MK-RelayCtrl if you want to add this function, but the A/C can operate on its own with no intervention from the ECU. It just won't shut off at full throttle.

Automatic transmission: The '86-'93 models do not have the ECU controlling the transmission, so you can remove the factory ECU completely and not have it affect the shifting. '94-'95 models have the ECU controlling the automatic transmission. If you have one of these cars, you can either do a parallel installation and leave the stock ECU in charge of the transmission while the MegaSquirt controls everything else, or add a GPIO board running MegaShift.  If you're doing a parallel installation to keep the stock ECU in control of the transmission, see this article for tips on parallel installs.

The gauges and air bags on these cars don't connect to the ECU, so you won't need to worry about them. The tachometer is driven off the TFI module, so control the TFI module and the tach will follow along. The other gauges connect to their own sending units.

The stock intake air temperature sensor threads into the intake manifold, where it can absorb heat through the walls of the manifold.  You can compensate for that in your tuning, but it will require more tuning work and know how, and it's simpler for most to move it somewhere it won't heatsoak in the first place. Moving it to the intake plumbing upstream of the throttle body (but, on a turbo car, downstream of the intercooler) can give a more accurate reading without the extreme heatsoak concerns.

 

 

Suggested parts

You can use either a Megasquirt I or II on these cars, depending on your budget. You will be able to use your existing sensors except for the MAP sensor which is built into the MegaSquirt.

ECU options:

Mod kits discussed in this article:

  • MK-BIP373 if you are using a V3.57 board and do not order one with TFI mods
  • MK-RelayCtrl will give you a relay control output if you are using an MS1 on a '94-'95 car, or want to control the AC cutout relay.
  • MK-PWMIAC for idle control
  • MK-Pullup will provide the pullup resistor needed for the internal mods described above

Other recommended parts

 

 

Making Your Order Easy

We've taken the above list of suggestions a step further, and used it to create two single part#'s you can order by to get everything you need, either in kit or assemble form.  So all you need to answer is, are you a hardcore DIY Build-It-Yourself from a kit kind of guy?  Or would you like it to arrive prebuilt, with all hardware mods completed, and ready to wire up with all the accessories you'll need?  (we'll even toss in a free t-shirt)

 

 

 

Note we left a Wideband O2 System OUT of these packages to keep your initial cost down, but as with any engine management system you'll definitely appreciate a wideband system during tuning.  We highly recommend the Innovate LC-1 with or without a gauge. 

Innovate LC-1 Wideband with DB Gauge Blue  Innovate LC-1 Wideband with DB Gauge Red Innovate LC-1 Wideband with XD-16 Gauge

Innovate LC-1 with Sensor, without Gauge$199

Innovate Standalone Gauge Kit w/ LC-1 & Blue DB Digital Gauge - $229

Innovate Standalone Gauge Kit w/ LC-1 & Red DB Digital Gauge$229

Innovate Standalone Gauge Kit w/ LC-1 and G2 Analog Gauge - $289

Innovate Standalone Gauge Kit w/ LC-1 and G3 Analog Gauge - $289

Innovate Standalone Gauge Kit w\ LC-1 & XD-16$329

 

 

Click Here if you have questions or would like to contact us!
 

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