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DIYPNP
by DIYAutoTune.com
The Do It Yourself Plug-N-Play MegaSquirt
EMS
you build from a simple kit.
Application Docs:
How to jumper and configure your DIYPNP to get your car fired up on
the first try
1983-1984 Toyota Supra USDM 5MGE MT
Test Vehicle Details:
The vehicle used for drawing up these
application docs was a USDM 1983 Toyota Supra. All factory
electronics/ignition system components are in place and the
factory wiring harness is in perfect condition.
Other notes:
Stock air flow meter in place. Stock 1983
throttle body with on / off
switch TPS in place
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What to buy:
Required:
1-
DIYPNPN52-K Kit. This is the main
DIYPNP Kit including the Nippon Denso style 52-pin connector
and all components, case, etc.
Optional:
1-
Tuning Cable This is
the same DB9 serial tuning cable used in other MegaSquirt
applications.
1-
USB Adapter This is
a DB9 serial to USB adapter. The adapter is needed when
the laptop or PC you are using does not have a built in DB9
serial port.
1-
StimPower This is a power supply
that is normally sold to power a stimulator, but another use is
it can be plugged directly into the DIYPNP mainboard to power
the ECU directly, allowing you to load the basemaps and do
limited testing on the ECU prior to installing the ECU in your
vehicle. It is particularly nice to be able to flash the
firmware and load your configuration on the bench instead of in
the vehicle, and allows for less risk of damaging something on
the vehicle due to incorrect settings.
1-
PNP_IAT-A or
PNP_IAT-S AFM/MAF Delete kit. This
is a simple kit with an IAT sensor, wire pigtail, crimp ins to
poke into the AFM Connector to run the signal back to the ECU,
and a steel or aluminum bung (hence the -A and -S in the part
numbers). Perfect for getting rid of a restrictive AFM/MAF
with your DIYPNP install.
What tools you'll need:
Soldering Iron, Solder, maybe some
desoldering braid in case you make a mistake. Small
phillips screwdriver. That's about it.
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Startup Maps
Base Configuration .msq files to help you
get your car fired up safely and quickly. Ready to
tune.
We're including these maps prior to
showing you how to jumper your DIYPNP up. There's a reason
for that. The base ignition settings contained in these
maps should be loaded on your DIYPNP before you power your car
up (with the key) with the DIYPNP installed. This is to
prevent damage to your ignition system in case the default
settings are not correct for your vehicle. Note that you can
power up the DIYPNP off the vehicle on a power supply connected
to the power jack next to the DB15 connector.
So here's our
recommendation-- After you complete basic assembly, Power
up your DIYPNP one of two ways. Either plug a Stimulator
Power Supply into the front panel of the box (the easiest way),
or, start the Jumper Section below, but only connect the power
and ground wires to start with. That way you can plug the
DIYPNP into your factory wiring harness and safely power it from
your car. The third option, if you've fully assembled and
jumpered your DIYPNP already, is to unplug your coils from their
power connectors before plugging the DIYPNP into your factory
harness and powering it from there.
Then and only then,
you can flash the firmware on your DIYPNP to the MS2/Extra
firmware if you haven't already, and then load the startup map
provided to help you get your vehicle started.
Click
Here to Download
Startup Maps for this Vehicle
Once the vehicle is
started, you will need to use the MS2/Extra manuals to set the
base timing and begin to tune the vehicle! This is
critical! Do not drive an untuned vehicle!
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DIYPNP Jumper Configuration
This section will cover the standard,
basic jumper configuration required to get the vehicle
running using your DIYPNP.
Vehicle information |
System Information |
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Market: |
USDM |
DIYPNP v1.1 |
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Make: |
Toyota |
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Model: |
Supra |
Code Version: |
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Year: |
1983 |
MS2/Extra 3.0.3p |
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Engine: |
5MGE |
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Tranny: |
Manual |
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Trim: |
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Edge Pin Connections |
Pull Ups |
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Ignition Settings |
Main |
Adapter |
Connection |
Resistance |
Voltage |
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Spark Mode |
Toothed Wheel |
IAT |
A17 |
ALED |
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Trigger Angle |
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CLT |
B10 |
WLED |
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Main/Return |
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TPS SIG |
GROUND |
OPTO+ |
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Oddfire Angle |
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O2 SENSOR |
A24 |
VR2 |
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GM HEI/DIS |
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VR IN + |
B13 (Ne) |
IAC |
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Use Cam Signal |
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VR IN - |
B16 (G-) |
High Current
Drivers |
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Ignition Input Capture |
Rising Edge |
OPTO IN + |
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Output |
Enabled |
To Pin |
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Spark Output |
Going High (Inverted) |
OPTO IN - |
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S1 |
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Number of Coils |
Single Coil |
VR2 IN + |
B14(G) |
S2 |
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Dwell type |
Standard Dwell |
IAC |
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S3 |
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Cranking Dwell |
4.0 |
TACH OUT |
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S4 |
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Cranking Advance |
10.0 |
FUEL PUMP |
A16 (VS) |
Knock Circuit |
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Maximum Dwell |
3.0 |
INJ1 |
C9 |
Enabled |
Sensor + |
Sensor - |
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Maximum Spark Duration |
0.7 |
INJ2 |
C4 |
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Trigger wheel arrangement |
Dual Wheel |
12V |
* A2 |
I/O Circuits |
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Trigger wheel teeth |
24 |
12V |
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Input From |
Out Pin To |
Purpose |
Missing teeth |
0 |
12V |
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Relay 1 |
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Tooth #1 angle |
24 |
VREF |
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Relay 2 |
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Wheel speed |
Cam Wheel |
5V |
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Boost |
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Second trigger active on |
Falling Edge |
SG |
A12 |
Input 1 |
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and every rotation of |
Crank |
SG |
B1 |
Input 2 |
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Notes |
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GND |
A11 |
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* Jumper from A13 to A21 for power
on A2 NE - 24 teeth G - 2 teeth
** Install ALTCAM resistor to GROUND
Stepper idle valve
connections: Stepper output 1A to
B8 Stepper output 1B to B17 Stepper output 2A
to B18 Stepper output 2B to B9 |
GND |
C2 |
Misc Jumpers |
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GND |
C5 |
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On |
Off |
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GND |
C10 |
OPTO GND |
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X |
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GND |
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BL/TH |
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X |
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IGN1 |
C3 |
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IGN2 |
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WLED |
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ALED |
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Other Changes/Considerations
This section will cover changes that need to be
made
to the DIYPNP that go beyond the standard I/O jumpering, such as
intake
valve butterfly activation, on/off VVT activation, or other
customizations to address the specific needs of a vehicle.
12V Supply to ECU
To bring switched 12V to the ECU jumper directly
from connectorboard A13 to connectorboard A21.
This allows the ignition switch to directly control the main
relay, giving the ECU its switched 12V power on connectorboard
pin A2. Do not jumper A13 or A21 to the mainboard, only to
each other.
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Stepper Idle Motor Control
The stepper idle control motor uses 6
wires.
There are two 12V power wires on one connector, and the four
coil operation wires on a second connector. We will be
leaving the 12V wires connected for this installation.
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Stepper circuit output 1A connects to
connectorboard terminal B8
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Stepper circuit
output 1B connects to connectorboard terminal B17
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Stepper circuit
output 2A connects to connectorboard terminal B18
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Stepper circuit
output 2B connects to connectorboard terminal B9
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Sensor Calibration
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This 1983 Supra does not have a
variable TPS.
You could use a 1985 to 1986 throttle body and TPS and calibrate it
properly from TunerStudio in the
'Tools' menu. Choose 'Calibrate TPS'.
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Make sure the engine is off, and
the key is on.
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With your foot off of the throttle,
click the 'Closed Throttle ADC Count - GET CURRENT'
Button.
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Put the throttle to the floor.
With your foot fully depressing the throttle, click the
'Full Throttle ADC Count - GET CURRENT' Button.
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Click Close.
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Calibrate your CLT Sensor and IAT
Sensor. The bias resistor value is 2490 ohms.
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Again from TunerStudio, click
'Tools > Calibrate Thermistor Tables'. Make
sure 'Coolant Temperature Sensor' is selected at the
top.
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Enter these values, and click
'Write to Controller.
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Now you'll do the same for the
IAT. Select 'Intake Temperature Sensor' at the
top in the drop down box.
(NOTE - If you are removing
your MAF/AFM as a part of the DIYPNP installation
process, do not recalibrate your IAT Sensor now)
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Enter these values, and click
'Write to Controller. Now click Close to Exit.
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Finally, you should calibrate your O2
Sensor to the ECU. To do this, click 'Tools >
Calibrate AFR Table'.
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Choose your O2 Sensor from the
list. Choose Narrowband for the stock O2
Sensor. Or select your wideband and the proper
configuration of said wideband from the drop-down
list.
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Click 'Write to Controller'.
Once finished writing, click 'Close'.
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Deleting the AFM
This is completely optional of course... but
if you'd like to rid yourself of that pesky and restrictive Air
Flow Meter you need to concern yourself with two things.
One, the stock IAT sensor is inside that housing. Two, the
stock AFM controls the Fuel Pump, as in the fuel pump will only
run with the AFM flapper door is open (when the engine is
starting or running and air is flowing through the flapper).
This allows the AFM to stop the fuel pump from running in the
event then engine stops running, such as if you have an
accident. When you remove the AFM you need to restore this
functionality.
IAT Sensor:
Simply wire a GM Open Element IAT Sensor into
your factory wiring harness at the AFM connector. You can
poke wires into the AFM connector, or you can cut and splice.
Looking into the wiring harness connector that plugs onto the
AFM with the two location notches to the top and the three to
the bottom, connect one wire of the GM IAT to the far left
terminal and connecto the other wire to the 5th terminal,
counting from the left. Both of these terminals are
colored red in the image below.

Fuel Pump Control:
To control the fuel pump, you need to do two
things. You need to run a jumper wire between two wires at
the AFM first, the second wire
and the last wire when counting from the left. These
terminals are indicated with blue in the image above.
Next, you need to add a jumper wire to the
inside of your DIYPNP EMS. Connect the FUEL PUMP hole
(along the edge of the mainboard) to the A16 hole on the
connectorboard. Now your DIYPNP has control of your fuel
pump.
If you previously installed your DIYPNP with
the AFM in place, and calibrated the IAT Sensor for the Corolla
Sensor, then you'll need to recalibrate it now back to the GM
IAT Sensor settings. Go back to 'Tools > Calibrate
Thermistor Tables'. Choose Intake Air Temp Sensor.
Choose 'GM' under 'Common Sensor Defaults'. Click Write to
Controller and then click Close.
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Read the Manuals, You are Responsible for your own
results!
This Application Doc is intended to assist
you in your DIYPNP DIY EFI Installation. We've done a fair
amount of research, and actually tested on a similar vehicle to
help ensure we can provide the most accurate information
possible to make your installation go as smoothly as possible.
That said, there are certain things you could do incorrectly, or
certain things you could change up, that could cause you to run
into issues. Our tech support department will be glad to
assist you working through any issues you might have, please
contact us and give us that opportunity and we should be able to
work things out for you.
Startup Maps included/attached to this
Application Doc is intended only to help you get your engine
started so that you can properly tune your engine. The map
will be setup properly for a stock vehicle matching the
year/make/model/trim in the 'Test Vehicle Details' section at
the top of this page. If you have made any changes to your
wiring, your ignition system, or other related components, this
map may not be ideal for your vehicle. You will then need
to check and confirm the appropriate settings and properly
configure your DIYPNP EMS for your altered vehicle. Some
maps offered may be more completely tuned that others, some may
be just setup enough to get the car to fire up and idle with a
little help from the throttle. That's when the tuning
begins.
In short-- We've provided you with the
building blocks for an incredible EMS. You are however
responsible for the implementation and your own successes or
lack thereof, but rest assured that we're here for you and we're
going to do everything in our power to make sure your project is
a success.
For more information on configuring and
tuning your DIYPNP EMS, and for information on adding and tuning
custom MS2/Extra features, read up at
http://www.msextra.com/ms2extra/. In fact, everyone
implementing this system should read that manual from front to
back if you really want to harness the power of the DIYPNP
EMS.
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We'd love to hear your feedback on our DIYPNP
Application Docs.
Click Here to offer feedback/suggestions!
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