The vehicle used for drawing up these application docs was a USDM 1992 Mitsubishi Galant VR4.  All factory electronics/ignition system components are in place and the factory wiring harness is in satisfactory condition.

Other notes:

Stock air flow meter removed.
GM open element IAT installed after intercooler and before throttle body.

12V Supply to ECU

To bring switched 12V to the ECU you will first need to take control of the main relay.  Jumper from connectorboard C1 to the "IN" of one of the relay circuits.  Jumper from the "OUT" of the same relay circuit to both B3 and B6 on the connectorboard.  The resulting output from the main relay will then be brought to the ECU by jumping connectorboard C4 to 12V on the main board.

Stepper Idle Motor Control

The stepper idle control motor uses 6 wires.  There are two 12V power wires and the four coil operation wires.  We will be leaving the 12V wires connected for this installation.

• Stepper circuit output 1A connects to connectorboard terminal B2

• Stepper circuit output 1B connects to connectorboard terminal B1

• Stepper circuit output 2A connects to connectorboard terminal B11

• Stepper circuit output 2B connects to connectorboard terminal B10

In addition to these four output jumpers, you will want to jumper from PT6, PT7, and PB4 (up near the DB15) on the main board to the stepper circuit on the connectorboard.  Jumpers for 12V, 5V, and GND will also need to be run from the main board to the connectorboard.

• If the valve works in the opposite of how you expect, you may reverse the PT6 and PT7 jumpers so they cross over from PT6 to PT7 and PT7 to PT6 rather than run straight through from PT6 to PT6 and PT7 to PT7.

Extra Accessories

This Galant VR4 did not have operational A/C or factory boost control.  These figures are untested but taken from the vehicle electrical wiring diagram.

• For the A/C:

  • Jumper from connectorboard A18 to "IN" on one of the unused relay control circuits

  • Jumper from "OUT" of the same relay control circuit to connectorboard B4

• For the boost control:

  • Jumper from PA0 near the DB15 to "IN" on the boost control circuit

  • Jumper from "OUT" of the boost control circuit to C6 on the connectorboard

  • It may be possible to use the factory control solenoid, or we offer an alternative solenoid in our web store.

• This vehicle does have a variable TPS.  You should calibrate it properly from TunerStudio in the 'Tools' menu.  Choose 'Calibrate TPS'.

  • Make sure the engine is off, and the key is on.

  • With your foot off of the throttle, click the 'Closed Throttle ADC Count - GET CURRENT' Button.

  • Put the throttle to the floor.  With your foot fully depressing the throttle, click the 'Full Throttle ADC Count - GET CURRENT' Button.

  • Click Close.

• Calibrate your CLT Sensor and IAT Sensor.  The bias resistor value is 2490 ohms.

  • Again from TunerStudio, click 'Tools > Calibrate Thermistor Tables'.  Make sure 'Coolant Temperature Sensor' is selected at the top.

    • For the CLT, use the following table:

      Temperature    F	Resistance In Ohms
      68	2500
      75	2082
      176	300

  • Enter these values, and click 'Write to Controller'.

  • Since this is a turbo car the IAT sensor will need to be installed after the intercooler and before the throttle body.  We used the GM open element IAT. 

    • For the IAT, use the following table with a bias resistor setting of 2490 Ohms.

      Temperature    F	Resistance In Ohms
      48	7000
      87	1930
      146	560

  • Enter these values, and click 'Write to Controller'.  Now click Close to Exit.

• Finally, you should calibrate your O2 Sensor to the ECU.  To do this, click 'Tools > Calibrate AFR Table'.

  • Choose your O2 Sensor from the list.  Choose Narrowband for the stock O2 Sensor.  Or select your wideband and the proper configuration of said wideband from the drop-down list.

  • Click 'Write to Controller'.  Once finished writing, click 'Close'.

This is completely optional of course... but if you'd like to rid yourself of that pesky and restrictive Air Flow Meter you need to remember that the stock IAT sensor is inside that housing.

IAT Sensor:

Simply wire a GM Open Element IAT Sensor into your factory wiring harness at the AFM connector.  You can poke wires into the AFM connector, or you can cut and splice.  Looking into the wiring harness connector that plugs onto the AFM with the two location notches to the top and the three to the bottom, connect one wire of the GM IAT to the far left terminal and connecto the other wire to the 5th terminal, counting from the left.  Both of these terminals are colored red in the image below.

You  may poke the wires into the MAF connector if you wish, or cut and splice.  There are only two wires to worry about with the IAT sensor and it does not matter which way they are connected as the sensor does not have a specific polarity.

The wires should then be folded down over the edge of the MAF connector, and the whole assembly firmly and cleanly wrapped in high quality electrical tape sealing it up. 3M makes some good stuff that can handle the temps found in engine bays-- read the specs.

This Application Doc is intended to assist you in your DIYPNP DIY EFI Installation.  We've done a fair amount of research, and actually tested on a similar vehicle to help ensure we can provide the most accurate information possible to make your installation go as smoothly as possible. That said, there are certain things you could do incorrectly, or certain things you could change up, that could cause you to run into issues.  Our tech support department will be glad to assist you working through any issues you might have, please contact us and give us that opportunity and we should be able to work things out for you.

Startup Maps included/attached to this Application Doc is intended only to help you get your engine started so that you can properly tune your engine.  The map will be setup properly for a stock vehicle matching the year/make/model/trim in the 'Test Vehicle Details' section at the top of this page.  If you have made any changes to your wiring, your ignition system, or other related components, this map may not be ideal for your vehicle.  You will then need to check and confirm the appropriate settings and properly configure your DIYPNP EMS for your altered vehicle.  Some maps offered may be more completely tuned that others, some may be just setup enough to get the car to fire up and idle with a little help from the throttle.  That's when the tuning begins. 

In short-- We've provided you with the building blocks for an incredible EMS.  You are however responsible for the implementation and your own successes or lack thereof, but rest assured that we're here for you and we're going to do everything in our power to make sure your project is a success.

For more information on configuring and tuning your DIYPNP EMS, and for information on adding and tuning custom MS2/Extra features, read up at http://www.msextra.com/ms2extra/.  In fact, everyone implementing this system should read that manual from front to back if you really want to harness the power of the DIYPNP EMS.