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DIYPNP

by DIYAutoTune.com

The Do It Yourself Plug-N-Play MegaSquirt EMS you build from a simple kit.

Application Docs:

How to jumper and configure your DIYPNP to get your car fired up on the first try

1990-1993 Mazda Miata USDM 1.6L B6 MT

Test Vehicle Details:

The vehicle used for drawing up these application docs was a USDM 1991 Mazda Miata 1.6L with a manual transmission.  The factory wiring harness is in perfect condition.

Other notes:
MAF removed
GM open element IAT installed
IGN1A Race Ignition Coils installed in a stock compatible configuration
BEGi S3 kit with GT2560R turbo installed
460cc high impedence fuel injectors



What to buy:

Required:

1- DIYPNPN76-K Kit.  This is the main DIYPNP Kit including the Nippon Denso style 76-pin connector and all components, case, etc.

 

Optional:

1- Tuning Cable  This is the same DB9 serial tuning cable used in other MegaSquirt applications.

1- USB Adapter  This is a DB9 serial to USB adapter.  The adapter is needed when the laptop or PC you are using does not have a built in DB9 serial port.

1- StimPower  This is a power supply that is normally sold to power a stimulator, but another use is it can be plugged directly into the DIYPNP mainboard to power the ECU directly, allowing you to load the basemaps and do limited testing on the ECU prior to installing the ECU in your vehicle.  It is particularly nice to be able to flash the firmware and load your configuration on the bench instead of in the vehicle, and allows for less risk of damaging something on the vehicle due to incorrect settings.

1- PNP_IAT-A or PNP_IAT-S AFM/MAF Delete kit. This is a simple kit with an IAT sensor, wire pigtail, crimp pins to poke into the AFM Connector to run the signal back to the ECU, and a steel or aluminum bung (hence the -A and -S in the part numbers).  Perfect for getting rid of a restrictive AFM/MAF with your DIYPNP install.

 

What tools you'll need:

Soldering Iron, Solder, maybe some desoldering braid in case you make a mistake.  Small phillips screwdriver.  That's about it.



Startup Maps

Base Configuration .msq files to help you get your car fired up safely and quickly.  Ready to tune.

We're including these maps prior to showing you how to jumper your DIYPNP up.  There's a reason for that.  The base ignition settings contained in these maps should be loaded on your DIYPNP before you power your car up (with the key) with the DIYPNP installed.  This is to prevent damage to your ignition system in case the default settings are not correct for your vehicle. Note that you can power up the DIYPNP off the vehicle on a power supply connected to the power jack next to the DB15 connector.

So here's our recommendation--  After you complete basic assembly, Power up your DIYPNP one of two ways.  Either plug a Stimulator Power Supply into the front panel of the box (the easiest way), or, start the Jumper Section below, but only connect the power and ground wires to start with.  That way you can plug the DIYPNP into your factory wiring harness and safely power it from your car.  The third option, if you've fully assembled and jumpered your DIYPNP already, is to unplug your coils from their power connectors before plugging the DIYPNP into your factory harness and powering it from there.

Then and only then, you can flash the firmware on your DIYPNP to the MS2/Extra firmware if you haven't already, and then load the startup map provided to help you get your vehicle started.

Click Here to Download Startup Maps for this Vehicle - There are two MSQ files in this download. One for 460cc injectors and one for the stock 240cc injectors.

Once the vehicle is started, you will need to use the MS2/Extra manuals to set the base timing and begin to tune the vehicle!  This is critical!  Do not drive an untuned vehicle!


 

 

DIYPNP Jumper Configuration

This section will cover the standard, basic jumper configuration required to get the vehicle running using your DIYPNP. 

 

Vehicle information System Information        
Market: USDM DIYPNP v1.5    
Make: Mazda      
Model: Miata Code Version:  
Year: 1991 MS2/Extra 3.0.3 T
Engine: 1.6L B6
Tranny: Manual      
Trim:        
   
Edge Pin Connections Pull Ups   Ignition Settings
Main Adapter Connection Resistance Voltage   Spark Mode 4G63
IAT 4P ALED       Trigger Angle 10
CLT 4Q WLED       Main/Return  
TPS SIG * GND OPTO+ 470 ohm 12v   Oddfire Angle  
O2 SENSOR 4N VR2 470 ohm 5v   GM HEI/DIS  
VR IN +   IAC FB Diode Banded end to 12V   Use Cam Signal On
VR IN -   High Current Drivers   Ignition Input Capture Falling Edge
OPTO IN +   Output Enabled To Pin   Spark Output Going High (Inverted)
OPTO IN - 4E S1       Number of Coils Wasted Spark
VR2 IN + 4G S2       Dwell type Standard Dwell
IAC 4W S3       Cranking Dwell 6.0
TACH OUT   S4       Cranking Advance 10
FUEL PUMP ** Knock Circuit     Maximum Dwell 4.5
INJ1 4U Enabled Sensor + Sensor -   Maximum Spark Duration 0.7
INJ2 4V         Trigger wheel arrangement  
12V 1B I/O Circuits   Trigger wheel teeth  
12V     Input From Out Pin To Purpose Missing teeth  
12V   Relay 1       Tooth #1 angle  
VREF *** Relay 2       Wheel speed  
5V   Boost       Second trigger active on  
SG 4C Input 1 1Q **** 1J A/C Relay & Fan and every rotation of  
SG 4D Input 2       Notes  
GND 4A        

* Jump SIG to 4L for variable TPS retrofit ONLY!
* For stock TPS jump SIG to GND with 1K resistor

** See documentation below.

*** Jump VREF to 1N for variable TPS ONLY!
*** Do not jump VREF to 1N for stock TPS.

**** Remove resistor R14
GND 4B Misc Jumpers  
GND   On Off  
GND   OPTO GND   X  
GND   BL/TH   X  
IGN1 1G  
IGN2 1H  
WLED    
ALED 1R (fan)        

 




Other Changes/Considerations

This section will cover changes that need to be made to the DIYPNP that go beyond the standard I/O jumpering, such as intake valve butterfly activation, on/off VVT activation, or other customizations to address the specific needs of a vehicle.

Radiator Fan

In the Jumper Notes above we've included a jumper for radiator fan activation using the 'ALED' circuit.  You'll jumper from the ALED terminal over to 1R on the ConnectorBoard to drive the fan relay.  You can configure the fan activation in TunerStudio from the 'Extended > Output Ports Settings' Menu.  More information on configuration can be found in the MS2/Extra Documentation here.

A/C Controls

In the Jumper Notes above we've included jumpers for A/C clutch and fan activation using the 'Input 1' circuit.  The Input for the AC system comes in from the A/C switch on ConnectorBoard pin 1Q.  The output of the "Input 1" circuit gets jumpered to 1J on the ConnectorBoard.  This pin will activate both the A/C compressor clutch relay and the A/C condensor fan relay.  You will need to leave R14 out of this circuit or cut out R14 if you installed it.

Fuel Pump

To successfully gain control over the fuel pump circuit, first you need to be sure you remove the "ST SIG" fuse for the 90 to 93 model Miata.  Jumper from "Fuel Pump" on the edge of the main board to "IN" on the high side driver circuit.  Jumper from "OUT" of the high side driver circuit to terminal 1C on the connectorboard.




Sensor Calibration

  • This vehicle does not have a variable TPS.  If you have installed a variable TPS you should calibrate it properly from TunerStudio in the 'Tools' menu.  Choose 'Calibrate TPS'.

    • Make sure the engine is off, and the key is on.

    • With your foot off of the throttle, click the 'Closed Throttle ADC Count - GET CURRENT' Button.

    • Put the throttle to the floor.  With your foot fully depressing the throttle, click the 'Full Throttle ADC Count - GET CURRENT' Button.

    • Click Close.

  • Calibrate your CLT Sensor and IAT Sensor. 

    • Again from TunerStudio, click 'Tools > Calibrate Thermistor Tables'.  Make sure 'Coolant Temperature Sensor' is selected at the top.

      • For the CLT, use the following table with a bias resistor setting of 2490 ohms:

        Temperature    F / C Resistance In Ohms
        -4 / -20 16150
        104 / 40 1150
        176 / 80 330
    • Enter these values, and click 'Write to Controller'.

    • Now you'll do the same for the IAT.  Select 'Intake Temperature Sensor' at the top in the drop down box.  (NOTE - If you are removing your MAF/AFM as a part of the DIYPNP installation process, do not recalibrate your IAT Sensor now)

      • For the IAT, use the following table with a bias resistor setting of 2490 ohms:

        Temperature    F / C Resistance In Ohms
        -4 / -20 16150
        104 / 40 1150
        176 / 80 330
    • Enter these values, and click 'Write to Controller'.  Now click Close to Exit.

  • Finally, you should calibrate your O2 Sensor to the ECU.  To do this, click 'Tools > Calibrate AFR Table'.

    • Choose your O2 Sensor from the list.  Choose Narrowband for the stock O2 Sensor.  Or select your wideband and the proper configuration of said wideband from the drop-down list.

    • Click 'Write to Controller'.  Once finished writing, click 'Close'.




Deleting the MAF

The DIYPNP allows you to disconnect the Mass Air Flow meter. When you remove the MAF, you will need to install a GM style intake air temperature sensor in your intake. This sensor connects to the third and forth pins on the IAT connector, as shown in the photos below. IAT sensors have no polarity, so it does not matter which wire you connect to which pin.

IAT Sensor:

Simply wire a GM Open Element IAT Sensor into your factory wiring harness at the AFM connector.  You can poke wires into the AFM connector, or you can cut and splice.  Wire one lead of the GM Sensor to the Brown Wire at the AFM Connector, and the other lead of the GM Sensor to the Yellow wire at the AFM Connector.

The wires should then be folded down over the edge of the MAF connector, and the whole assembly firmly and cleanly wrapped in high quality electrical tape sealing it up. 3M makes some good stuff that can handle the temps found in engine bays-- read the specs.




Read the Manuals, You are Responsible for your own results!

This Application Doc is intended to assist you in your DIYPNP DIY EFI Installation.  We've done a fair amount of research, and actually tested on a similar vehicle to help ensure we can provide the most accurate information possible to make your installation go as smoothly as possible. That said, there are certain things you could do incorrectly, or certain things you could change up, that could cause you to run into issues.  Our tech support department will be glad to assist you working through any issues you might have, please contact us and give us that opportunity and we should be able to work things out for you.

Startup Maps included/attached to this Application Doc is intended only to help you get your engine started so that you can properly tune your engine.  The map will be setup properly for a stock vehicle matching the year/make/model/trim in the 'Test Vehicle Details' section at the top of this page.  If you have made any changes to your wiring, your ignition system, or other related components, this map may not be ideal for your vehicle.  You will then need to check and confirm the appropriate settings and properly configure your DIYPNP EMS for your altered vehicle.  Some maps offered may be more completely tuned that others, some may be just setup enough to get the car to fire up and idle with a little help from the throttle.  That's when the tuning begins. 

In short-- We've provided you with the building blocks for an incredible EMS.  You are however responsible for the implementation and your own successes or lack thereof, but rest assured that we're here for you and we're going to do everything in our power to make sure your project is a success.

For more information on configuring and tuning your DIYPNP EMS, and for information on adding and tuning custom MS2/Extra features, read up at http://www.msextra.com/ms2extra/.  In fact, everyone implementing this system should read that manual from front to back if you really want to harness the power of the DIYPNP EMS. 



We'd love to hear your feedback on our DIYPNP Application Docs.  Click Here to offer feedback/suggestions!

 

 

Click Here if you have questions or would like to contact us!
 

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