The vehicle used for drawing up these application docs was a USDM 1993 Ford Probe 2.5L with a manual transmission.  All factory electronics/ignition system components are in place and the factory wiring harness is in satisfactory condition.

Other notes:

MAF in place
Aftermarket turbo kit installed
Exact injector size unknown, 330cc used for basemap ** Recalculate the Req_Fuel before using **

Radiator Fan

In the Jumper Notes above we've included a jumper for radiator fan activation using the 'ALED' circuit.  Include a jumper during assembly from the ALED terminal to Connectorboard 4L.  You can configure the fan activation in TunerStudio from the 'Extended > Output Ports Settings' Menu.  More information on configuration can be found in the MS2/Extra Documentation here.

VRIS Variable Intake

The Variable Resonance system inside the intake manifold is controlled by two vacuum solenoids and two vacuum actuators.  The control wires for both of these solenoids are conveniently available within the ECU connectors for us to take control of.  The solenoid for the first VRIS actuator is at pin 4I and the second is at 4J.  We chose to jumper PT6 to the input of 'Relay 1' and PT7 to the input of 'Relay 2'.  'Relay 1' out would be connected to 4I and 'Relay 2' out would be connected to 4J.  The activation and deactivation RPMs for each solenoid can be found above in the jumper chart notes area.  When properly configured the actuators should be receiving vacuum at idle.  You can configure the VRIS activation in TunerStudio from the 'Extended > Output Ports Settings' Menu.  More information on configuration can be found in the MS2/Extra Documentation here.

AC Fan and Clutch Relays

The signal from the AC control unit passes through the factory ECU to control the AC clutch and AC fan.  We chose to use 'Input 1' on the main board to condition the input from the AC switch to control the fan and compressor clutch.  You will want to remove resistor R14 or leave that component off.  Jumper from 1O to 'Input 1' in.  Jumper from 'Input 1' out to both 3P and 1L.

Fuel Pressure Control Solenoid

The stock ECU controls a solenoid to deny vacuum to the fuel pressure regulator and increase fuel pressure during warm starts.  We found after testing the engine turned over just fine with properly adjusted cranking, afterstart, and warmup settings and not using the solenoid.  We used PA0 as the input to the boost control circuit and output to 4M for this as the 'Relay 1' and 'Relay 2' circuits had already been used by the VRIS system.  We could have used WLED to drive this solenoid directly but decided to leave it open for the possible future application of a wasted spark distributorless ignition system.  The boost control circuit can double as an overkill relay control circuit if needed.  You can configure the solenoid activation in TunerStudio from the 'Extended > Output Ports Settings' Menu.  More information on configuration can be found in the MS2/Extra Documentation here.

• This vehicle does have a variable TPS.  You should calibrate it properly from TunerStudio in the 'Tools' menu.  Choose 'Calibrate TPS'.

  • Make sure the engine is off, and the key is on.

  • With your foot off of the throttle, click the 'Closed Throttle ADC Count - GET CURRENT' Button.

  • Put the throttle to the floor.  With your foot fully depressing the throttle, click the 'Full Throttle ADC Count - GET CURRENT' Button.

  • Click Close.

• Calibrate your CLT Sensor and IAT Sensor. 

  • Again from TunerStudio, click 'Tools > Calibrate Thermistor Tables'.  Make sure 'Coolant Temperature Sensor' is selected at the top.

    • For the CLT, use the following table with a bias resistor setting of 2490 ohms:

      Temperature    F / C	Resistance In Ohms
      -4 / -20	15000
      104 / 40	1100
      176 / 80	300

  • Enter these values, and click 'Write to Controller.

  • Now you'll do the same for the IAT.  Select 'Intake Temperature Sensor' at the top in the drop down box.

    • For the stock IAT inside the MAF on the KLDE use the following table with a bias resistor setting of 2490 ohms:

      Temperature    °F	Resistance In Ohms
      -4	15000
      104	1100
      176	300

  • Enter these values, and click 'Write to Controller.  Now click Close to Exit.

• Finally, you should calibrate your O2 Sensor to the ECU.  To do this, click 'Tools > Calibrate AFR Table'.

  • Choose your O2 Sensor from the list.  Choose Narrowband for the stock O2 Sensor.  Or select your wideband and the proper configuration of said wideband from the drop-down list.

  • Click 'Write to Controller'.  Once finished writing, click 'Close'.

The DIYPNP allows you to disconnect the Mass Air Flow meter. When you remove the MAF, you will need to install a GM style intake air temperature sensor in your intake. This sensor connects to the third and forth pins on the IAT connector, as shown in the photos below. IAT sensors have no polarity, so it does not matter which wire you connect to which pin.

IAT Sensor:

Simply wire a GM Open Element IAT Sensor into your factory wiring harness at the MAF connector.  You can poke wires into the MAF connector, or you can cut and splice.

        

The wires should then be folded down over the edge of the MAF connector, and the whole assembly firmly and cleanly wrapped in high quality electrical tape sealing it up. 3M makes some good stuff that can handle the temps found in engine bays-- read the specs.

This Application Doc is intended to assist you in your DIYPNP DIY EFI Installation.  We've done a fair amount of research, and actually tested on a similar vehicle to help ensure we can provide the most accurate information possible to make your installation go as smoothly as possible. That said, there are certain things you could do incorrectly, or certain things you could change up, that could cause you to run into issues.  Our tech support department will be glad to assist you working through any issues you might have, please contact us and give us that opportunity and we should be able to work things out for you.

Startup Maps included/attached to this Application Doc is intended only to help you get your engine started so that you can properly tune your engine.  The map will be setup properly for a stock vehicle matching the year/make/model/trim in the 'Test Vehicle Details' section at the top of this page.  If you have made any changes to your wiring, your ignition system, or other related components, this map may not be ideal for your vehicle.  You will then need to check and confirm the appropriate settings and properly configure your DIYPNP EMS for your altered vehicle.  Some maps offered may be more completely tuned that others, some may be just setup enough to get the car to fire up and idle with a little help from the throttle.  That's when the tuning begins. 

In short-- We've provided you with the building blocks for an incredible EMS.  You are however responsible for the implementation and your own successes or lack thereof, but rest assured that we're here for you and we're going to do everything in our power to make sure your project is a success.

For more information on configuring and tuning your DIYPNP EMS, and for information on adding and tuning custom MS2/Extra features, read up at http://www.msextra.com/ms2extra/.  In fact, everyone implementing this system should read that manual from front to back if you really want to harness the power of the DIYPNP EMS.