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How to use an EEC-IV Adapter Board to MegaSquirt your Ford
If you haven't already, please read the 'disclaimer' at the top of the
parent page here.
Updated 4/6/07
What does this board do?
MegaScott's EEC-IV adapter board kit
(available here) allows you to install MegaSquirt into
virtually any Ford vehicle that uses an EEC-IV computer, without cutting a
single wire. Ford used the EEC-IV ECU from 1983 until 1995 in many of
their US-market cars, including the 5.0 Mustang, Thunderbird Turbo Coupe, Merkur
XR4Ti, pickup trucks, and countless Escorts, Tauruses, and many others.
The EEC-IV adapter board bolts into an EEC-IV case in place of the original
circuitry and connects to the MegaSquirt using a relay cable. You will
just need to add a MAP sensor line to use Megasquirt's MAP sensor.
The EEC-IV adapter board can work with most of the stock Ford hardware from
this era. It can control the injectors, PWM fast idle valves, EDIS or TFI
ignition, and drive relays and other circuitry as well. Since not all
Fords use the exact same pinout, you can configure the adapter board using
jumper cables to connect the injectors, oxygen sensor(s), relays, and the like.
Several features, including the fast idle valve, ignition control, and
temperature sensors, are the same on almost all EEC-IV units and do not require jumpers.
While the EEC-IV adapter board works with most injected Fords from this era,
it does not work with all of them. A few early versions of the EEC-IV used a
nonstandard connector. Some other Ford products used Mazda ECUs.
Here is a close-up of the standard connector on the EEC-IV ECU.
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Note,
there are a few Fords from this era have some components that are a bit tricky.
Some of the mid-'80s engines outfitted with CFI (central fuel
injection) use a DC servo idle air control valve that does not work with Megasquirt.
If you find one of these, you can simply adjust the idle speed screw to keep the
car from stalling in cold weather and run without idle control. There are also a few distributorless ignitions that
represented an intermediate step between TFI and EDIS. These use similar signals
to the TFI system and might work with the TFI mods, but some specifics are not
well documented or tested. This early DIS appeared on some versions of the
Taurus SHO, Thunderbird Super Coupe, dual plug versions of the 2.3 inline four,
and possibly a few other applications. A tip-off to the early DIS is that
this early DIS did not use a 36-1 crank wheel trigger, while all EDIS systems
have this trigger wheel.
Also, some later Fords used computer controlled
automatic transmissions. Right now, the code isn't there to control these
with the Megasquirt. The EEC-IV board has a second connector that you can
use to make a pigtail harness that could let you hook up a stock EEC-IV ECU
in parallel with the Megasquirt to control the transmission, although it may
take a bit of experimentation to get this working right. You can also use a
stand-alone transmission controller. Not all Ford automatics require
electronic controls, however, or have the controls integrated into the
EEC-IV ECU. '93 and earlier 5.0 Mustangs, for example, do not use the ECU for
automatic transmission control, and the EEC-IV adapter board in one of these
cars does not present a problem.
The incompatible and/or challenging setups are
few and far between, but worth a mention here. All standard TFI and
EDIS Fords using an EEC-IV and a either manual transmission or an automatic
with mechanical or standalone controls will work just fine... (86-93 5.0 Mustangs and
various Escorts, Rangers, Tauruses, you name it...) |
The EEC-IV has the PWM idle speed control driver already built in. You can simply use the
standard fast idle control circuit on the MegaSquirt and set it up for PWM idle
control in MegaTune. It also simplifies the ignition input and output mods.
The MegaEFI website has the assembly
directions and schematics for this board. Here, we will present a basic guide to
how to set this board up for most common MegaSquirt versions. You will
want to use a wiring diagram for your specific car to set up the jumpers.
Using the Megasquirt-I and EEC-IV
Adapter Board with TFI
MegaSquirt-I
PCBv2.2 Mods
Required:
-
Input mod: You install a 2k 1/4w resistor in
place of D8
-
Output mod: Run a jumper wire from the negative lead
of LED 17 to pin 36 on the underside of the DB37 connector. On
V2.2 boards, there is no hole on the board, so you must solder the
jumper directly to the DB37 connector lead.
MegaSquirt-I
PCBv3.0 Mods
Required:
-
Input mod: You install a 2k 1/4w resistor in place
of D2. Jumper D1. Jumper TachSelect to OptoIn, XG1 to XG2, and TSEL to OptoOut.
-
Output mod: Run a jumper wire from the top lead of
D14 to the IGN jumper.
On the
EEC-IV Adapter Board
- Use a 330 ohm resistor for R4, installed in
the 12 volt position.
MSnS-E Ignition Configuration
-
Configure MegaTune for TFI Spark Output using
LED17 (D14). Do not set any other spark outputs.
- Set
Spark Output Inverted to Yes.
- Set
Trigger Angle to 10 degrees.
- Set
Dwell to Fixed Duty, and Spark Output Duty Cycle to 50% duty cycle.
-
Note: This is for the "Push start" modules, without computer controlled
dwell. The computer controlled dwell settings are not fully
tested.
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Using the Megasquirt-I and EEC-IV
Adapter Board with EDIS
MegaSquirt-I
PCBv2.2 Mods
Required:
-
Input mods:
-
Remove the XG1 to XG2 jumper, D5, D8, and R10.
-
Connect a jumper between XG1 and the right
(non-banded) hole where D5 goes.
-
Connect a jumper between the bottom hole in the R10
position and the right (banded) hole in the D9 position.
-
Replace D8 with a 1.3k to 2k resistor.
-
Output mod: Run a jumper wire from the negative lead
of LED 17 to pin 36 on the underside of the DB37 connector. On
V2.2 boards, there is no hole on the board, so you must solder the
jumper directly to the DB37 connector lead.
MegaSquirt-I
PCBv3.0 Mods
Required:
-
Input mods:
-
Remove C30 and the XG1 to XG2 jumper if fitted, as
well as any jumper running from TachSelect.
-
Replace R12 with a 1.3k resistor. (Resistors from 1k
to 10k should be OK).
-
Run a jumper from S12C to the top hole in the C30
position.
-
Jumper TachSelect to XG1.
-
Jumper TSEL to OPTOOUT.
-
Output mod: Run a jumper wire from the top lead of
D14 to the IGN jumper.
On the
EEC-IV Adapter Board
- Use a 2.2k ohm resistor for R4, installed in
the 5 volt position.
MSnS-E Ignition Configuration
- Under Codebase and Output Functions, set EDIS
mode using LED17 (D14) for spark output A. Do not set any other spark
outputs.
- Set trigger angle to 0 degrees.
- Set Spark Output Inverted to Yes.
- Set Dwell Control to Fixed Duty and 50% duty
cycle.
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Using the Megasquirt-II and EEC-IV
Adapter Board with TFI
MegaSquirt-II
PCBv3.0 Mods
Required:
-
Input mod: You install a 2k 1/4w resistor in place
of D2. Jumper D1. Jumper TachSelect to OptoIn, XG1 to XG2, and TSEL to OptoOut.
-
Output mod: Run a jumper wire from JS10 to IGBTIN
and jumper IGBTOUT to IGN.
On the
EEC-IV Adapter Board
- Use a 330 ohm resistor for R4, installed in
the 12 volt position.
Megatune Ignition Configuration:
(from B&G's
TFI Control page for the MS-II)
- Trigger offset =
10° (this will vary,
depending on the distributor orientation, see below)
- Ignition Input Capture to 'Falling
Edge'
- Cranking Trigger to 'Trigger
Rise'
- Coil Charging Scheme to 'Standard
Coil Charging'
- Spark Output to 'Going
High (Inverted)'
Then set the dwell setting to 8.0 milliseconds
with no battery voltage compensation. This will get the spark output to
closely imitate the square wave signal that the EEC-IV computer sends out.
More information on setting Trigger Offset:
You must also set the initial position of the
trigger (called the 'trigger offset'), then check it using the Trigger
Wizard in MegaTune (Tools Menu). The trigger offset setting will
vary according to your distributor position (where it is in rotation) but
you'll need to set it properly... Basically you use the Trigger Wizard
and adjust the 'trigger offset' and/or twist your distributor until the
advance number in the Trigger Wizard matches what you're reading with your
timing light. The +/- buttons on the trigger wizard will adjust your
trigger offset. You'll need to use these buttons and a timing light to
make the number on your light, and the big number on the left in the Trigger
Wizard, match up.
Here's the information on this direct from the
MegaTune Manual:
Before tuning your advance table, be sure to use
a timing light to verify that your 'trigger offset' is calibrated.
Changing the Trigger Offset in MegaTune will not change the displayed
advance, instead, it changes the actual advance as seen with a timing light.
Your goal is to make these two match.
To do this, get your engine warmed-up (otherwise
the timing moves as the temperature increases) and idling, then use a timing
light to verify to be certain your actual advance as shown by a timing light
equals your the advance display on the advance gauge in MegaTune. (8° in
this case). (Note that positive numbers denote BTDC, and negative numbers
denote after TDC.)
 Image courtesy of Bowling
and Grippo
Megatune PWM IAC Configuration:
- First open the MegaTune Configurator, and open CAR1>SETTINGS.INI>SETTINGS>IDLE_CONTROLLER
and select PWM_GAUGE from the dropdown box at the top right.
- Save and exit the Configurator.
- Open MegaTune and connect to the ECU, and from the SETTINGS menu choose IDLE
CONTROL.
- Select the PWM Warmup ‘Algorithm’ and then you can configure the values
for your vehicle and click ‘Burn to ECU’.
We do not have specific settings for all the Ford
vehicles that you may be using this on. For now, information on tuning these settings can be found
in the MegaTune manual:
http://www.megasquirt.info/megatune.htm#sd
Coolant (CLT) / Intake (IAT/MAT) Temperature
Sensor Calibration
You can use your stock IAT and CLT sensors, and with the MegaSquirt-II you can calibrate these
sensors through MegaTune. It's best to leave the standard R4 and R7
'Bias Resistors' in place in the MegaSquirt and just configure this in the
software. You get better accuracy this way.
- Open MegaTune>Tools>Calibrate Thermistor
Tables
- Select 'Coolant Temp Sensor', Select
'Fahrenheit', and enter these values:
- Click OK and the Coolant sensor will be
calibrated.
- You're not quite finished yet though--- You
need to repeat these steps, but choose 'Air Temperature' as the sensor
table and use the same temp and resistance values from above as the
sensors use the same curve. This will calibrate the IAT as well.
NOTE-- Make sure you chose Fahrenheit or your
readings will be WAY off with the above values....
More Information
- Everyone should thoroughly read the
MegaManual. I mean... you wouldn't buy a new doo-dad and install
it without using the manual would you? OK now seriously though...
this is your pride and joy we're talking about here... read the
manual and the FAQ!!! www.megasquirt.info
- Read both the MS1 and MS2 sections, not
all of the MS1 section will apply to you, but MUCH of it will, and
the MS2 section isn't really complete without this information.
- Another great resource I refer to often is the
MegaTune Tuning Software Manual-- here's the link: http://www.megasquirt.info/megatune.htm
You shouldn't really 'need' this information, but
it's linked here for further reading if you're interested.
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Using the Megasquirt-II and EEC-IV
Adapter Board with EDIS
MegaSquirt-II
PCBv3.0 Mods
Required:
-
Input mod: Use the standard Hall/Optical input
circuit. Jumper TachSelect to OPTOIN and TSEL to OPTOOUT.
-
Output mod: Run a jumper wire from JS10 to IGBTIN
and jumper IGBTOUT to IGN.
On the
EEC-IV Adapter Board
- Use a 330 ohm resistor for R4, installed in
the 12 volt position.
Megatune Ignition Configuration:
(from
B&G's EDIS Control page for the MS-II, modified for the different output
circuit)
- Ignition Input Capture to 'Falling
Edge'
- Cranking Trigger to 'Calculated'
- Coil Charging Scheme to 'EDIS'
- Spark Output to 'Going
Low (Normal)'
Megatune PWM IAC Configuration:
- First open the MegaTune Configurator, and open CAR1>SETTINGS.INI>SETTINGS>IDLE_CONTROLLER
and select PWM_GAUGE from the dropdown box at the top right.
- Save and exit the Configurator.
- Open MegaTune and connect to the ECU, and from the SETTINGS menu choose IDLE
CONTROL.
- Select the PWM Warmup ‘Algorithm’ and then you can configure the values
for your vehicle and click ‘Burn to ECU’.
We do not have specific settings for all the Ford
vehicles that you may be using this on. For now, information on tuning these settings can be found
in the MegaTune manual:
http://www.megasquirt.info/megatune.htm#sd
Coolant (CLT) / Intake (IAT/MAT) Temperature
Sensor Calibration
You can use your stock IAT and CLT sensors, and with the MegaSquirt-II you can calibrate these
sensors through MegaTune. It's best to leave the standard R4 and R7
'Bias Resistors' in place in the MegaSquirt and just configure this in the
software. You get better accuracy this way.
- Open MegaTune>Tools>Calibrate Thermistor
Tables
- Select 'Coolant Temp Sensor', Select
'Fahrenheit', and enter these values:
- Click OK and the Coolant sensor will be
calibrated.
- You're not quite finished yet though--- You
need to repeat these steps, but choose 'Air Temperature' as the sensor
table and use the same temp and resistance values from above as the
sensors use the same curve. This will calibrate the IAT as well.
NOTE-- Make sure you chose Fahrenheit or your
readings will be WAY off with the above values....
More Information
- Everyone should thoroughly read the
MegaManual. I mean... you wouldn't buy a new doo-dad and install
it without using the manual would you? OK now seriously though...
this is your pride and joy we're talking about here... read the
manual and the FAQ!!! www.megasquirt.info
- Read both the MS1 and MS2 sections, not
all of the MS1 section will apply to you, but MUCH of it will, and
the MS2 section isn't really complete without this information.
- Another great resource I refer to often is the
MegaTune Tuning Software Manual-- here's the link: http://www.megasquirt.info/megatune.htm
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Relay controls, knock sensing, and more
The EEC-IV adapter board has several controls for relays to drive fans and
other output circuits. These closely resemble the MSnS-E relay driver circuits
with the addition of a LED to let you know when the circuit is active. To use
these drivers, run a jumper wire from the appropriate source on the Megasquirt
board to one of the IAC outputs, and run a jumper wire from the appropriate pin
on the EEC-IV adapter board to the AxIN hole in the relay output area.
Then run a jumper from the AxOUT hole to the appropriate pin on the
EEC-IV connector. These outputs can drive relays by providing a ground.
The
MSnS-E manual's section on relay outputs explains which area on the
Megasquirt mainboard corresponds to which output number in MegaTune. With
Megasquirt-II, you use its
spare output port settings to operate the relay drivers. In either
case, you will just need one length of jumper wire inside the Megasquirt itself;
the EEC-IV adapter board has the rest of the circuit.
The switch circuits work in a similar fashion. They're designed to take a
voltage input and send it to Megasquirt for table switching or nitrous control.
In this case, the "In" side will go to the EEC-IV connector, and the "out" side
to Megasquirt.
The EEC-IV adapter board also incorporates the
knock sensor circuit from the MSnS-E manual. You can wire its input to an
external knock sensor and send its output through the relay cable to the
appropriate pin on the Megasquirt. With MSnS-E, you will use pin 5 on the JP1
header for a V2.2 board, or the JS10 jumper on a V3.0 board. With Megasquirt-II,
you need to use pin X6 for a V2.2 board or JP4 on a V3.0 board.
You can also use any of the other MSnS-E circuits and send their output straight
from the Megasquirt to the EEC-IV connector by running the appropriate jumper
wires. Note that the standard relay cable has the IAC wires, but not the four
SPR wires.
Setting up the jumpers
To configure the jumpers, you will need a wiring diagram for the car you are
installing your EEC-IV adapter onto. While the ignition, power, and temperature
sensor lines are the same, you will want to check the pins for the injectors,
oxygen sensor, and any relay outputs you may need to use.
Here are the jumper settings for one of the most popular EEC-IV cars ever,
the '86-'93 Mustang with the 5.0. This setup appears on MegaScott's
documentation; we have not tested it yet on an actual running 5.0 ourselves.
This arrangement fires the #1, 6, 7, and 4 injectors on one bank, and the #2, 3,
5, and 8 on a separate bank. It only uses one oxygen sensor; you can add
extra hardware to the Megasquirt for a second oxygen sensor output and change
the injector connections to have each bank controlled separately, too.
| Connection |
DB37 pin |
EEC-IV connector pins |
| Injector bank 1 |
INJ1 |
13, 15, 42, 58 |
| Injector bank 2 |
INJ2 |
12, 14, 52, 59 |
| Oxygen sensor (right) |
O2 |
29 |
We've also found that if you are preparing for a swap and want to check out
your EEC-IV adapter board before you drop a 5.0 into a four banger car, you can make
the 5.0 jumpers work
on a '88 2.3 Mustang (and quite probably other years) by disconnecting the EGR
valve. As you may have guessed, we're planning to put a 5.0 into our Mustang
test car and test these settings out very soon - stay tuned!
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