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How to MegaSquirt your Ford MustangThanks and props to 'DieselGeek' for alot of help getting this info together! You are the man! Also-- if you haven't already, please read the 'disclaimer' at the top of the parent page here. Updated 10/2/2009 - Split off the '96-'04 Modular Motor Mustangs
Note-- due to the various Mustang Ignition Systems and EFI systems we've decided to split this article up. This link will remain valid, and will host links to the new articles as they are brought online. Currently we've split off and updated the 5.0 and 4.6 mod motor section. The rest of the information for later cars will remain below briefly until we revisit this and spin it off into it's own (improved) writeup.
We'll be adding more sections soon to better support our customers with 4 and 6 cylinder Mustangs, as well!
Other non-year specific Mustang notes from Dieselgeek:Ground the Ford TPS (ground wire) to the block or chassis. Don’t use the factory temp sensors UNLESS you “re-ground” them – Ford’s sensors are on an isolated “ground” that may behave “flaky” causing intermittent, one-second blips in whichever sensors are on this isolated ground. What I usually do is reground the TPS sensor ground to the chassis, then share the TPS signal (0-5v) wire going to the factory ECU with the MegaSquirt. Then I like to run separate GM temp sensors – the GM CLT sensor threads DIRECTLY into the Ford CLT sensor location, and you can remove the Ford CLT sensor entirely (factory computer will know it’s disconnected but will run the IAC fine). Thread the GM IAT into your intake elbow or anywhere just before the throttle body on the intake. You NEED the EEC-V (factory computer) to run the gauges, cruise control, odometer, PATS, etc. It’s nice to let the factory computer still control the Idle Air Control motor, while MegaSquirt controls the fuel and spark. Many cars are tested and running happily this way.
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