DIY Stud of the Month
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may help others out? Share it with us and you may be declared the all
dishonorable DIY Stud of the Month! Send in your pics with a short
description of what you've done and the problem it solved. Doesn't
have to be EFI/Ignition related, just keep it car related and creative.
We'll pick from the best each month and post one up here.
So email us your DIY Tips and Tricks, maybe you're the next SOTM ;).
Note everything you see here is customer submitted and has
not been fully tested by anyone here at DIYAutoTune, use information
found here at your own risk!
December 2009
The December 2009 DIYSOTM is Jeff Linfert from
Atlantic
Auto Works/Boles Motorsports in Melbourne, FL. He's
submitted a writeup on how to modify GM DIS coils packs to stop
using the internal ignitors allowing you to fire the coils directly
from your MegaSquirt ECU (via BIP373's or possibly an external
ignitor). He's chosen to go this route because these coils are
so readily available in any yard you might go to, and while the
coils are good the built in ignitors can be a bit flaky.
Here's how to de-flakify them and get your fire burning.
Modifying a GM DIS ignition module for direct coil control
Everybody
knows that you can find GM DIS coil packs everywhere, but the
ignition modules can be a little flaky. The coils themselves are
great: easy to find, hotter coils are readily available from MSD,
ACCEL and others, and you don't need funky plug wires (Ford EDIS).
I have a
simple way to modify the ignition module so Megasquirt can directly
control the coils. The example I'm using is a 6 cylinder module from
a 3.1L engine but it can be done with 4 cylinder modules and even 8
cylinder Northstar modules.
Ok, below
is a photo of a 6 cylinder ICM

Note the
silver metal cover. The first step is to remove it. I use a razor to
cut the adhesive around it and the pry it off with a small
screwdriver. The ICM should now look like this:

There is
clear potting goo covering the electronics, remove as much as you
can, also cut all of the fine wires out.

The 2 pin
connector on the left of the ICM in the first picture is where you
apply power. It will feed all three coils through the vertical spade
connectors (1 of each pair will be hot, usually the outside ones,
check with a multimeter)
On the
right side of the ICM there are 2 connectors, one has 3 pins, the
other 6. Ignore the 3 pin connector.
Using
your multimeter again check for continuity between the pins in the 6
pin connector and the metal tabs that were covered with potting goo.
The first 4 pins from top to bottom correspond to the 4 tabs on the
right of the picture above (bottom of page 2). Next you need to find
out which tabs connect to the 3 vertical spade connectors that DON'T
get battery power. On this module they are the 2 on the left side of
the cavity and the top left tab.
So now
you just solder a jumper wire from 1 tab on the right to a tab that
connects with a spade connector.

Then
solder a second jumper:

And
finally a third:

Once this
is done I put some silicone RTV over the solder joints and replace
the cover.
Then you
can install the coils, bolt everything to the mounting bracket and
mount it in the car. The wires that used to trigger the
ignitors will now trigger the coils directly, allow you to put the
ignitors in the ECU or to use an external ignitor box.
The best
sources for these coils at the junkyard are 2.2L Cavaliers,
Sunfires, or S-10 pickups for 4 cylinder models 2000 to 2003 models
work best and are easiest to access. Be sure to get the connectors
as well. Any 3.1L or 3.4L equipped GM vehicle from 94 to 2002
works for 6 cylinder versions and Northstar Cadillacs for 8 cylinder
versions.
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