The vehicle used for drawing up these application docs was a USDM 1999 Mazda Miata 1.8L with a manual transmission.  All factory electronics/ignition system components are in place and the factory wiring harness is in perfect condition.

Other notes:

MAF in place
DIYPNP Sequential module installed
Jackson Racing supercharger installed
330cc fuel injectors installed
GM IAT sensor used

Radiator Fan

In the Jumper Notes above we've included a pair of jumpers for radiator fan activation using the 'Relay 1' circuit.  You'll notice we suggested using PA0 on the mainboard to drive the fan, and run the output from 'Relay 1' over to 1R on the ConnectorBoard to drive the fan relay.  You can configure the fan activation in TunerStudio from the 'Extended > Output Ports Settings' Menu.  More information on configuration can be found in the MS2/Extra Documentation here.

A/C Controls

In the Jumper Notes above we've included jumpers for A/C clutch and fan activation using the 'Input 1' circuit.  The Input for the AC system comes in from the A/C switch on ConnectorBoard pin 1P.  The output of the "Input 1" circuit gets jumpered to both 1S and 1I on the ConnectorBoard.  These two pins will activate the A/C compressor clutch relay and the A/C condensor fan relay.  You will need to leave R14 out of this circuit or cut out R14 if you installed it.

VICS

In the Jumper Notes above we've included jumpers for the VICS variable induction system.  The VICS actuator should have vacuum at idle and changes state at 5000 RPM.  We have used ALED as the output to control the VICS system at Connectorboard 4Q with RPM as a single output condition, a threshold of > 5000, a hysterisys of 300, "power on" set to 0, and "trigger value" set to 1.  This all means that the output will activate at 5000 RPMs, won't turn back off until 4700 RPMs, is off when the MS is powred and the engine is started, and is activated when triggered.  If your VICS appears to be opposite and has no vacuum to the actuator after the DIYPNP install at idle, you may need to swap the "power on" and "trigger value" numbers.

Sequential or Batch Injection

You have a choice here.  You can go with the conventional batch fire of the fuel injectors or you could go full 4 cylinder sequential injection using the DIYPNP sequential module.  Click here as well for the full sequential documentation.

The injector outputs are numbered as they appear in the firing order when using the sequential injection mode.  1-3-4-2.  Injector one remains the first injector, while injector two is actually cylinder three.  Injector three is from cylinder four and injector four is from cylinder two.

If you choose batch mode continue to wire the injectors as you normally would by following the jumper configuration above.

• This vehicle does have a variable TPS.  You should calibrate it properly from TunerStudio in the 'Tools' menu.  Choose 'Calibrate TPS'.

  • Make sure the engine is off, and the key is on.

  • With your foot off of the throttle, click the 'Closed Throttle ADC Count - GET CURRENT' Button.

  • Put the throttle to the floor.  With your foot fully depressing the throttle, click the 'Full Throttle ADC Count - GET CURRENT' Button.

  • Click Close.

• Calibrate your CLT Sensor and IAT Sensor. 

  • Again from TunerStudio, click 'Tools > Calibrate Thermistor Tables'.  Make sure 'Coolant Temperature Sensor' is selected at the top.

    • For the CLT, use the following table with a bias resistor setting of 2490 ohms:

      Temperature    F / C	Resistance In Ohms
      14 / -10	9000
      68 / 20	2500
      176 / 80	320

  • Enter these values, and click 'Write to Controller.

  • Now you'll do the same for the IAT.  Select 'Intake Temperature Sensor' at the top in the drop down box.  (NOTE - If you are removing your MAF/AFM as a part of the DIYPNP installation process, do not recalibrate your IAT Sensor now)

    • For the stock IAT, use the following table with a bias resistor setting of 2490 ohms:

      Temperature    F / C	Resistance In Ohms
      -4 / -20	16150
      104 / 40	1150
      176 / 80	330

    
    
    

    • For the GM IAT sensor, use the following table with a bias resistor setting of 2490 ohms:

      Temperature  °F	Resistance In Ohms
      48	7000
      87	1930
      146	560

      
      

    • Enter these values, and click 'Write to Controller.  Now click Close to Exit.

  • Finally, you should calibrate your O2 Sensor to the ECU.  To do this, click 'Tools > Calibrate AFR Table'.

    • Choose your O2 Sensor from the list.  Choose Narrowband for the stock O2 Sensor.  Or select your wideband and the proper configuration of said wideband from the drop-down list.

    • Click 'Write to Controller'.  Once finished writing, click 'Close'.

The DIYPNP allows you to disconnect the Mass Air Flow meter. When you remove the MAF, you will need to install a GM style intake air temperature sensor in your intake. This sensor connects to the third and forth pins on the IAT connector, as shown in the photos below. IAT sensors have no polarity, so it does not matter which wire you connect to which pin.

IAT Sensor:

Simply wire a GM Open Element IAT Sensor into your factory wiring harness at the AFM connector.  You can poke wires into the AFM connector, or you can cut and splice.  There are only two leads to this IAT connector.  It does not matter which way you connect them as the IAT sensor does not have a specific polarity.

The wires should then be folded down over the edge of the MAF connector, and the whole assembly firmly and cleanly wrapped in high quality electrical tape sealing it up. 3M makes some good stuff that can handle the temps found in engine bays-- read the specs.

The DIYPNP actually fits quite well in the stock ECU location between the brake and clutch pedals.  We have reused the lower bracket only and secured the DIYPNP with zip ties to the lower ECU bracket at the bottom side of the unit.  At the top of the DIYPNP we have again used zip ties to hold the DIYPNP steady against the clutch pedal bracket.

This Application Doc is intended to assist you in your DIYPNP DIY EFI Installation.  We've done a fair amount of research, and actually tested on a similar vehicle to help ensure we can provide the most accurate information possible to make your installation go as smoothly as possible. That said, there are certain things you could do incorrectly, or certain things you could change up, that could cause you to run into issues.  Our tech support department will be glad to assist you working through any issues you might have, please contact us and give us that opportunity and we should be able to work things out for you.

Startup Maps included/attached to this Application Doc is intended only to help you get your engine started so that you can properly tune your engine.  The map will be setup properly for a stock vehicle matching the year/make/model/trim in the 'Test Vehicle Details' section at the top of this page.  If you have made any changes to your wiring, your ignition system, or other related components, this map may not be ideal for your vehicle.  You will then need to check and confirm the appropriate settings and properly configure your DIYPNP EMS for your altered vehicle.  Some maps offered may be more completely tuned that others, some may be just setup enough to get the car to fire up and idle with a little help from the throttle.  That's when the tuning begins. 

In short-- We've provided you with the building blocks for an incredible EMS.  You are however responsible for the implementation and your own successes or lack thereof, but rest assured that we're here for you and we're going to do everything in our power to make sure your project is a success.

For more information on configuring and tuning your DIYPNP EMS, and for information on adding and tuning custom MS2/Extra features, read up at http://www.msextra.com/ms2extra/.  In fact, everyone implementing this system should read that manual from front to back if you really want to harness the power of the DIYPNP EMS.