The vehicle used for drawing up these application docs was a USDM 1987 BMW 325is 2.5L M20B25 with a manual transmission.  All factory electronics/ignition system components are in place and the factory wiring harness is in perfect condition.  The only exceptiont to this are upgraded 19 LB high impedance fuel injectors, but for the purposes of this writeup this won't effect you.  The base map we have provided (below) has been scaled for 14lb injectors.

Other notes:
Article details installing the DIYPNP with the AFM in place, as well as deleting the AFM for better intake airflow.

12V Switched Input / Main Relay / Fuel Pump Relay

This is the correct method to gain control over both the Main Relay and the Fuel Pump Relay, as well as give the DIYPNP a switched 12V power source.

(In this example we'll be using Relay Circuit #2 for this purpose.  You could use Realy Circuit #1 with minor changes, or a proto area relay circuit if you wanted.)

• Jumper from Connector Board Pin 27 to Relay 2 Input.

• Jumper from Relay 2 Output to Connector Board Pin 36

• Leave out or remove the D5 diode of the #2 relay circuit you are using here.  

• Jumper from Connector Board Pin 3 to "Fuel Pump" on the Main Board.

• Jumper from Connector Board Pin 37 to "12V" on the Main Board.

VR Sensor Input

To maintain a consistant tach signal to the DIYPNP an 18k Ohm resistor is needed in series with the VR+ input. There are two easy ways to accomplish this.

(1) Solder the resistor into the jumper wire from the Connector Board Pin 47 to "VR IN +" on the Main Board.

or

(2) Jumper into and out of the Proto Area. Please view the Proto Area documentation here. Use the jumper wire and solder between Connector Board Pin 4 and one of the outer holes in either Proto Area. Cross over the center section with the 18k Ohm resistor being sure to stay in the same Proto row. Finally jumper from the opposite outer Proto Area hole to "VR IN +" on the Main Board.

Note-- the whole goal here is to make sure the VR Sensor + signal passes --through-- this 18K resistor before going to the VR IN + hole on the mainboard. 

TPS / Idle Air Control / Acceleration Enrichments

This model does not have a variable TPS, rather an on/off style. As a result the IAC type will need to be set to "PWM Warmup" as well as the standard Accel Enrichments (not Enhanced) used.

Until a variable TPS is added, TPS SIG from the Main Board will need to be jumpered to Ground with a 1k Ohm resistor to prevent the TPS signal from gradually floating higher and possibly accidentally triggering flood clear mode.

The addition of a variable TPS will allow the use of Closed Loop Idle Control as well as Enhanced Acceleration Enrichments as both of these features look to the TPS signal for feedback.

3 Wire ISC Valve

These cars have a 3 wire idle speed control valve. We've provided a driver for this on the adapter board. See this page for details.

• Calibrate your CLT Sensor and IAT Sensor. 

  • Again from TunerStudio, click 'Tools > Calibrate Thermistor Tables'.  Make sure 'Coolant Temperature Sensor' is selected at the top.

    • For the CLT, use the following table with a bias resistor setting of 2490 ohms:

      Temperature    F / C	Resistance In Ohms
      14 / -10	9500
      68 / 20	2500
      176 / 80	330

  • Enter these values, and click 'Write to Controller'.

  • Now you'll do the same for the IAT.  Select 'Intake Temperature Sensor' at the top in the drop down box.  (NOTE - If you are removing your MAF/AFM as a part of the DIYPNP installation process, do not recalibrate your IAT Sensor now)

    • For the IAT, use the following table with a bias resistor setting of 2490 ohms:

      Temperature    F / C	Resistance In Ohms
      14 / -10	9500
      68 / 20	2500
      176 / 80	330

  • Enter these values, and click 'Write to Controller'.  Now click Close to Exit.

• Finally, you should calibrate your O2 Sensor to the ECU.  To do this, click 'Tools > Calibrate AFR Table'.

  • Choose your O2 Sensor from the list.  Choose Narrowband for the stock O2 Sensor.  Or select your wideband and the proper configuration of said wideband from the drop-down list.

  • Click 'Write to Controller'.  Once finished writing, click 'Close'.

The DIYPNP allows you to disconnect the Air Flow Meter. One thing to note however is when you remove the AFM, the stock IAT sensor comes out with it (the IAT sensor is inside the AFM).  You will therefore need to install a GM style intake air temperature sensor in your intake. This sensor connects to the first and forth pins on the IAT connector, as shown in the photos below. IAT sensors have no polarity, so it does not matter which wire you connect to which pin.

IAT Sensor:

Simply wire a GM Open Element IAT Sensor into your factory wiring harness at the AFM connector.  You can poke wires into the AFM connector, or you can cut and splice.  Wire one lead of the GM Sensor to the first wire at the AFM Connector, and the other lead of the GM Sensor to the fourth wire at the AFM Connector. There are 5 wire slots in the AFM connector, however only 4 have terminals installed.  The two outer terminals will be the ones used.

The wires should then be folded down over the edge of the AFM connector, and the whole assembly firmly and cleanly wrapped in high quality electrical tape sealing it up. 3M makes some good stuff that can handle the temps found in engine bays-- read the specs.

The following dyno chart is from after fully tuning the engine with the AFM installed.  We then removed the AFM and added a smooth intake pipe and ran another test.  3 peak HP and 3 peak Ft/Lb torque were gained.  The DIYPNP with AFM is the solid line and the DIYPNP without the AFM is the dotted line.

This Application Doc is intended to assist you in your DIYPNP DIY EFI Installation.  We've done a fair amount of research, and actually tested on a similar vehicle to help ensure we can provide the most accurate information possible to make your installation go as smoothly as possible. That said, there are certain things you could do incorrectly, or certain things you could change up, that could cause you to run into issues.  Our tech support department will be glad to assist you working through any issues you might have, please contact us and give us that opportunity and we should be able to work things out for you.

Startup Maps included/attached to this Application Doc is intended only to help you get your engine started so that you can properly tune your engine.  The map will be setup properly for a stock vehicle matching the year/make/model/trim in the 'Test Vehicle Details' section at the top of this page.  If you have made any changes to your wiring, your ignition system, or other related components, this map may not be ideal for your vehicle.  You will then need to check and confirm the appropriate settings and properly configure your DIYPNP EMS for your altered vehicle.  Some maps offered may be more completely tuned that others, some may be just setup enough to get the car to fire up and idle with a little help from the throttle.  That's when the tuning begins. 

In short-- We've provided you with the building blocks for an incredible EMS.  You are however responsible for the implementation and your own successes or lack thereof, but rest assured that we're here for you and we're going to do everything in our power to make sure your project is a success.

For more information on configuring and tuning your DIYPNP EMS, and for information on adding and tuning custom MS2/Extra features, read up at http://www.msextra.com/ms2extra/.  In fact, everyone implementing this system should read that manual from front to back if you really want to harness the power of the DIYPNP EMS.